Adios South America

Day 150 – March 27 (cont.)

So after finishing up our Nazca lines flight, we popped back to the hotel for our swimming suits, and then caught taxis to a nearby hotel that had agreed to allow us to use their lovely pool (as long as we bought a drink and had dinner there). We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the pool, the boys played with their water guns obsessively, played a bit of tennis on the very old court and kept an eye on the llama who was busy keeping the grass trimmed. We had a nice dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, and then headed back for some TV. and early bed time!

Day 151 – March 28

We all had to be up and ready to go at 9 (thankfully in our OWN private mini bus)! The first stop of the day was at Huacachina, a tiny oasis town 4km west of Ica. The town is dominated by giant sand dunes and nestles next to a picturesque lagoon.

We all signed up to go out in dune buggy’s to explore the dunes – but we didn’t quite expect THESE huge contraptions!


The views of the dunes were amazing


Murray waving from the back row. The trucks were SO powerful – they just flew through the dunes at an amazing pace – up the sides for steep turns and over edges so quickly we caught a lot of air – kinda scary!

Everyone (except for me as I seem to be accident prone lately….) tried sand boarding as well. (from left – Clive, Jules, Rachel, Steve & Donna)


Murray boarding down the dune (they really flew – especially once they greased up the bottoms of the boards a bit!)


Murray flying down to the rest of the group


Huacachina – isn’t it just SO lovely!


I’m sorry – he forced me to publish this photo. The dreaded nail FINALLY fell off (if you remember – he stubbed it just before Torres del Paine months ago – it has been hanging on by a thread since then) this photo is for you Helen!

After we finished with the crazy 4x4 buggies we were allowed to swim in the attached hotel’s pool. Then we had a nice little lunch, and got back on the road.

Next we stopped at Tacama Winery (the oldest bodega in Peru) for a bit of wine and Pisco tasting


Steve & Murray enjoyed the rose just a BIT too much I think

The wine was lovely, and the Pisco was strong! Pisco is white grape brandy that is produced in this region, and is the alcohol that is used in Peru’s famous drink the Pisco Sour. Pisco is also the name of the town where our day journey ended. We checked into our little hotel, got some (foul deep fried) dinner in town, and had a nice early night as we knew we’d be up early the next morning.

Day 152 – March 29

The hotel actually had a few ‘offices’ set up in the breakfast room, because there was SO much damage to the town during the tsunami a year and a half ago, and then the earthquake a year ago that many of the office buildings are unusable.

We got up nice and early to head down to the pier and join up with a boat tour to see the Ballestas Islands.


Just as we were leaving the docks we spotted sea lions playing near the boats – exciting!


They like their shark boats apparently!


Stunning photo of a boat near Pisco’s port - you can just see one of the Ballesta islands (the white one on the left) and a little seal head just in front of the boat


This is the candelabra – this giant 3 pronged figure was etched into the coastal hills in ancient times, and is over 150m high and 50m wide


Islas Ballestas is one of the most important bird sanctuaries on the Peruvian coast.


Guano producing birds include the booby, pelicans, Humboldt penguins, comorants, turkey vultures, Inca turns and oyster catchers.
A lonely bird seperated from the group (bird b.o.?)

There are also large colonies of sea lions on the islands

These are the Inca Turns

Layers of sunbaked, nitrogen-rich seabird droppings (guano) have been deposited over millennia on the islands by their large resident bird colonies. In places droppings are as much as 50 meters deep!

Guano’s reputation as a first class fertilizer dates back to pre Inca times, but few could have predicted that these filthy riches were to become Peru’s principal export during the mid 19th century. In fact, the trade was so lucrative that Spain precipitated the so called guano war of 1865-66 over possession of the nearby guano-rich Chincha Islands. Nowadays, however, over exploitation and synthetic fertilizers have taken their toll and the birds are largely left to their steady production process in peace (other than the boatloads of tourists coming for a look).


Bit of a scratch


SO cute – we saw the mother seals teaching the babies how to swim


Now just follow me:) Really amazing to see!! Doesn’t the baby look like he only just has his head far enough out of the water!


Back at Pisco watching the pelicans going crazy for fish

The Pisco area is also a VERY dry area – they usually get around only 1.75mm of rain a year in this area (thus why the Candelabra has hung around for so long without too much wear and tear).

We caught the bus out of town around 11 to head to Lima – our first public bus….. It was – interesting. Little to no leg room, and people hopping on and off all the time, but at least it was still a proper big bus – so the seats were ok.

We got into Lima around 4, dropped off our bags and went out to a late lunch. We FINALLY tried Ceviche (seafood ‘cooked’ in lime juice along with sliced red onions – amazing)!! We had the mixto (mixed) ceviche which was fish, octopus, prawns, etc – it wasn’t too acidic (as we though it might be) and definitely not too fishy (which I hate) – it was just right – and SO tasty! I had a lovely piece of sea bass (corvina) and Murray had the seafood (Neptune) pasta – lovely! We all sprung out for a bit of dessert as well and our cheese cake AND ice cream was fib!!!

View down the cliff to the beachside in Lima

Around 8 we met up with our guide Jose, and that’s when he filled us in on the drama – that he had just been informed he was suspended (because of changing prebookings on other tours – which they aren’t allowed to do) and that he was so upset about how they treated him that he QUIT!! So we quickly ran off to get our tip for him (since we were expecting to have him with us for another 2 weeks!!) and then he said he’d still be happy to take us out to a nightclub and have a drink with us. He got us all into the club just before it opened, and we all had a drink or 2 there. But it was expensive, and the music wasn’t danceable – so eventually we moved on to another bar in the complex that was playing some fun music. (Although the first place was set on the side of a cliff and had AMAZING views of the sea – stunning).

Me enjoying the dancing


Murray, Steve & Adam

We ended up getting back at 3ish after a fun last night out with this group (this was the last stop for most of the people in our group).

Day 153 – March 30

Finally – a good sleep in. Murray and I got up around noon, and then met everyone for lunch at Tony Romas (a US rib restaurant). We had some awesome onion rings, ribs of course and an average salad – great comfort food. In the afternoon we headed back to our hotel, did some interneting, and then met up again with the gang to go to a movie. (Jumper – which wasn’t a bad film). It was so odd at the shopping center though – we saw SO many people who were scared or just didn’t know what to do on an escalator. Hmmm

Yes, I admit we didn´t do many tourist things in Lima, but we still had SUCH a nice time hanging out with the group and just relaxing!

Day 154 – April 1

Today we met our new guide Walter in the morning (our group is now down to just the two of us, Steve and Clive) and then met our old group at starbucks (YAY!). We all got cabs together and headed down to a massive market we had heard about. It was HUGE and all indoors – rows and rows of little shops selling everything from shoes, to clothes, to electronics, to dvds (you can guess where Murray spent most of his time….. let’s just say we have a FEW more dvds with us now!)

After a few hours there we went back to our hotel to pack, and then we went back later that evening to the hostel where most of our group had moved to (since their gap trip had officially ended) to say goodbye to them.

Steve, Ali & Murray enjoyed the ping pong table they had on the rooftop terrace!


Donna, Clive & Steve


Steve & Troels concentrating hard on their chess game

Jose even showed up (turns out he lives close by!) so he helped us order some Chinese food to be delivered, and we had a nice chilled our evening chatting and watching the ping pong tournament. We left at 10 (after a few sad goodbyes!) and went back to our hotel for a quick shower before going to get on our night bus.

Day 155 – April 1

We arrived early in Huanchaco, and got checked in to the hotel, and a bit of breakfast

Steve, Clive & Me on the balcony at the hotel having breakfast

We then caught a cab in to see Chan Chan – an ancient mud brick city located 5km west of Trujillo.


The vast area of crumbling mud walls once formed the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, and the largest mud-brick city in the world. The pattern in this photo is the waves of the ocean – with sea otters along to the bottom section.


Our guide showing us how they used to use conch shells as a musical instrument


One of the cool well preserved walls- depicting fish swimming through the ocean, waves and pelicans at the bottom


These diamond shapes represent fishing net designs


Build around AD1300, Chan Chan must have once been a dazzling site. It contained around 10,000 structures from huge walk in wells, canals and temple pyramids to royal palaces lined with precious metals.


The Incas conquered the Chimo people around 1460, but the city wasn’t looted until the gold hungry Spanish arrived later and the grave robbers finished their work. The Chimo are remembered for Chan Chan and were around from AD1000 to 1470.


The site covers 28 square kilometers and originally housed about 60,000 people


This is one of the wells in the site


Our guide demonstrating to us another traditional instrument – the flute


This part of the world is also famous for these Peruvian hairless dog. They have very warm bodies and are often used to help sufferers of arthritis.


I thought he was cute – well sweet, and a tiny bit ugly

Next we went to the site called La Huaca (temple) Esmeralda. It pretty much was just two stepped platforms – and not too impressive (thus why I am posting no photos).

Then finally we went to La Huaca Arco Iris.


This Chimu site means Rainbow temple – and is also called the Dragon temple


It is one of the best preserved Chimu temples because it was covered in sand until 1963


The combined height of the two levels is about 7.5 meters


The temple is covered in rainbow and dragon designs


Me & Murray posing at the temple for a pic


We were not sure why this guy was in the corner - looked kind cool though


We also saw some lovely unusual looking flowers on the way out


And some cool pots (doesn’t it look like this pot is say ohhhhhh)


And a few more of those of so lovely looking dogs (nice bum shot here)


Kinda looks like an ewok don’t ya think?


I got to hold a puppy – now HE was cute!


How could you not love that face?

Then we cabbed it back to the hotel, and went out for a lovely lunch in Huanchaco. We had a set lunch – ceviche to start and a fish main meal – lovely fresh and healthy!

We spent the afternoon sleeping, working on photos for the blog, and relaxing. Then we had a nice dinner out with our group and had a GREAT night’s sleep to the sound of the waves.

Day 156 – April 2

Today Murray decided to stay at the hotel and work on photos for the blog, so Steve and I went into Trujillo to explore. We flagged down a van, that managed to squish us into one of the back seats, then they picked up more and more and more people – until I was in the back seat with Steve and 2 other people smashed up! We had to laugh – it was just so bizarre (and so cheap – I think we paid like 75 US cents for the 2 of us). When we got into the city we just walked around and looked at the square, a few churches, etc. – quite a pretty little city! Trujillo is 560km north of Lima, and is Northern Peru’s main city.


Me reading the guidebook in the Plaza de Armas. The impressive statue in the center of the plaza represents work, the arts and liberty. The main building in the square is the cathedral (the yellow building) which was begun back in 1647.

Later we caught the chicken bus back to Huanchaco, got Murray, and headed off for a bite to eat.


The boys ordered food cooked on the bbq – which funnily enough was ON the street!


Me & Steve


Murray’s octopus on the bbq


And cooked! (Apparently it was lovely)


And on the way back to the hotel we stopped at an ice cream shop – but drooled over this gorgeous pie!!


Murray, Me & Clive squished into a cab on the way to the bus station

We were all laughing at the bus station – because the lady in line in front of us checked a box that had CHICKENS – live chickens – in it!! Too funny! We laughed and said this officially is our first chicken bus in South America – hilarious.

Luckily Walter had sorted out getting us downstairs seats – which means they were the fancier bigger, more reclining seats – excellent!

We were fed dinner, breakfast, and even tea (oh – the luxury – not), but the ‘sleep’ was still SO uncomfortable. I actually traded seats with Steve – because the back on Murray’s seat was broken so it went back SO far there was no leg room for the person behind! Fine with me since I sleep with my legs curled up. (oh and the one movie they showed was only in Spanish – fantastic – I hate when they do not have subtitles!)

Steve showing off his lack of legroom before I switched seats with him

We arrived in Mancora at 5am and got some tuk tuk´s down a VERY dustry road to our hotel.

We could NOT have been happeier than when we arrived at our lovely hotel!

We had a nice breakfast, then we got the tuk tuk´s back into town to use the internet, the town is a bit of nothing really and the people are SO miserable! I’m glad we stayed outside of the town in a nice relaxing place that’s for darn sure!


Back at the hotel we caught the gorgeous sunset over the ocean

And then we enjoyed a fantastic meal at the hotel’s restaurant

I had corvina – half covered with a pesto sauce, half with a salsa sauce – AMAZING!


Murray had the pepper tuna and oh my gosh was it fantastic

Day158 – April 4

Today we had a GREAT sleep in, nice scrambled egg breakfast (with bacon in it – wow it has been a long time – yumm!) and spent the rest of the day just relaxing by the pool. Murray spotted a massive pod of dolphins swimming by in the ocean (hundreds of them) and I typed up (the last) blog when it got too hot in the afternoon to be outside.

And of course, we caught the gorgeous sunset again


Murray jumping for joy – we love the beach


Steve & Murray showing off their jumping skills


We thought the rays of sunshine coming out of the sunset looked amazing

And more amazing food at the hotel restaurant (nothing else is convenient really – and this place is reasonably priced and the chef seems to nearly always just be sitting in the dining room watching tv waiting for orders – so it works well. Only thing we learned was don’t eat the pulpo – octopus – Steve got really sick from eating some!)

Day 159 –April 5

Another beautiful morning at our hotel ‘El Mirador de Vichayito’

We had a great relaxing morning, had a self made tuna lunch in our room and then we popped into town for a bit, and made it back JUST in time for some more photos on the beach.


A crab down at the beach


They were ALL over the place!

They were the size of a large man´s hand
Huge!

And more gorgeous sunsets – here is Murray off for an evening swim (he says the body surfing here in Mancora is some of the best he has EVER experienced)!

Day 160 – April 6

We spent the morning packing, had an ok chicken sandwich for lunch.


And then it was back in the tuk tuk’s


Me posing with our tuk tuk driver and our bag only just barely attached to the back and VERY dusty! (it is going to need a GOOD long soak in the tub when we get to MN)!


Sorting out getting the bag untied


Waiting at the bus stop with Clive

Our bus finally arrived at 2pm and we quickly jumped on, then it was off again. It was a terrible public bus – no leg room, tons of people on and off, with the ‘conductor’ yelling out the window constantly to passing people to see if anyone else wanted a ride as well!

We also crossed the border, over into Equator. It was a long wait, but easy. After that our bus drove through the ‘customs’ area. The guy was on his mobile phone, so he just opened one of the doors to the baggage area under the bus, took a quick peek, and then waved us on our way!!! Secure huh?

Then we had to get on another bus, and make our way to Cuenca. We didn’t get in until 11:30pm, so then it was time for SLEEP! Day buses are SO exhausting!

Day 161 – April 17

Today we spent the day exploring Cuenca.


Cuenca reigns supreme in colonial splendor for Ecuador.


It has narrow cobblestone streets, white washed red tiled buildings, handsome plazas and domed churches set above the grassy banks of the Rio Tomebamba.


It is Equator’s third largest city with 165,000 inhabitants


We decided to do an open top bus tour of the city – here’s Murray, Me & Clive


It is a lovely city


The Parque Calderon is the main plaza


It is dominated by the handsome ‘new’ cathedral (c. 1885) with its huge blue domes.
Although the original cathedral was begun in 1557, the year Cuenca was founded by the Spanish conquerors.


Up on the hill by the cathedral


Great views of the city


And there were ladies washing and drying clothes on the banks of the Tomebamba River!
The river divides Cuenca in half, the south of the river is where the recent suburbs and the modern university is. To the north is the heart of the colonial city.


Cuenca is considered the most beautiful city in Ecuador and has an exciting history. Barely half of a century before the arrival of the Spaniards, the powerful Inca Tupac Yupanqui was undertaking the difficult conquest of the local Canari people, who struggled bravely to stem the expansion of the Inca Empire. After several years of bitter fighting, Tupac Yupanqui’s forces prevailed.

The Incas began the construction of a major city whose splendor and importance was to rival that of the imperial capital of Cuzco. Stores of sun temples covered with gold sheets and palaces built using the finest skill of Cuzqueno stonemasons abound. What happened to Tomebamba, as the city was called, however is a complete mystery. By the time the Spanish chronicler Cieza de Leon passed through in 1547, Tomebamba lay in ruins, although the well-stocked storehouses indicated how great it had recently been.


We also went to a ‘Panama’ hat shop called Barranco – this photo shows how they flatten the top of the hats


Murray is ironing the sides of the hat, while Steve bangs out the top (this is the old way of doing it)


The villagers in the surrounding areas are expert milliners, creating beautiful and useful Panama hats (which should perhaps more accurately be called Equator hats).


They come to the shops looking like this – ready to be fixed up for sale. A Panama Hat is a traditional brimmed hat of Ecuadorian origin that is made from the plaited leaves of the toquilla straw plant.


Straw hats woven in Ecuador, like many other 19th and early 20th century South American goods, were shipped first to the Isthmus of Panama before sailing for their destinations in Asia, the rest of the Americas, and Europe. For some products, the name of their point of international sale rather than their place of domestic origin stuck, hence “Panama Hats ”


Clive, Murray, Me & Steve showing off some of the hats


Our serious gangster faces

Steve & Murray struggled deciding which one to buy! So instead they posed as ´Odd Job' from James Bond.

After we finished looking at hats is started to POUR with rain. So we had a lovely coffee made with Equatorian beans and relaxed for a bit before cabbing it back to the hotel.


Steve had the idea for this clever photo – I like our nice small group!

That evening we all popped out to a local grocery store to pick up some food for the next day’s bus ride (YAY they had tons of American stuff to choose from – biggest selection we have seen so far), and had a bite to eat. The Clive and Steve caught a night bus to Quito (because Clive needed to go to the embassy the next morning) – Murray, Me & Walter just had an early night since we decided a day bus would be better than a very uncomfortable night bus.

Day 162 – April 18

We got up at 6am to go to our bus. It left at 7:45 and drove all day.


Our one stop



With a ‘pool’ EWWWWWWW


I got through a whole book which was nice (Nights in Rodanthe by Nicholas Sparks – a real tear jerker – but I loved it)

The first movie (The Champ) was only in Spanish – but we managed to follow along. Then Walter convinced the conductor to put in one of our dvds, with Spanish subtitles, so we watched Michael Clayton which was excellent. Then the boys watched the new Superman as well while I read.

We got into Quito 5ish, met up with Steve & Clive, went out for a nice dinner, and a MacDonald’s ice cream on the way home which was great.

Day 163 – April 19

We left the hotel at 8:45 in the morning, to head off to the airport for our flight to the jungle!


They led us to the first class lodge, and gave us these little packets and a lovely book mark from the lodge


And it had YUMMY cookies inside

Our flight was in a fairly big plane (I was surprised!) and only took half an hour – to Coca.


Then we had a 3 hour boat ride to the lodge – I ended up taking a lovely nap


Steve was awake – but Clive snoozed too!


We were amazed by these rafts floating HUGE trucks down the river

When we finally got to the docks, we then had a 10 minute walk to some little canoes.


Me sneaking a peek around my bag for a photo


The canoes were a BIT precarious – quite tippy!


After about 15 minute we arrived at a large lake and got our first glimpse of the lodge (and funnily enough the guy paddling our canoe was wearing a Minnesota Gophers baseball hat!).

La Selva Jungle Lodge is 90km from Coca, and is located near the picturesque Laguna Garzacocha.


The welcomed us with some great snacks and a cocktail – we ate and drank every little bit – SO yummy!!


Then it was time to go find our cabin


We rested for a bit, then it was lunch time – and our first super fresh super yummy juice


And a great pudding for dessert (wow the food is amazing here – HUGE contrast from the floating shack jungle trip we did in Brazil!!)


We spotted this guy making his way across the table


Ewwww, we got rid of him (but putting him on the floor) but he just kept on coming back for more & more!

Then it started to rain, and then it started to POUR! So we decided to forego a walk, and just play games in the lodge instead. We started with a game of scrabble, and then played numerous games of pictionary until it was time for dinner. They also gave us bowls of popcorn to snack on while we played –fantastic!


And then it was time for dinner – and another AMAZING juice!! (every meal started with a new juice and a great soup)


A bit of lodge smugness from Murray


Steve also was served up the piranha that he caught before dinner (this is his piranha teethy face – he he)

We finished the night off with a few cocktails and games of king in the corner.


I was relieved that we had mosquito nets, which meant we were able to shower off all our bug spray before going to bed!

Day 164 – April 10

Today we woke up at 6, had a great breakfast (pancakes, fresh fruit, eggs, juice and home made bread).

At 7 we left for our first jungle walk

And straight away we spotted this guy


And a fat leech- ewwww


And TONS of frogs – check out how tiny this guy is – amazing that they can spot them! This guy is called a Colosthetos


And a few big ones - this is a Bufo Margaritifer


What a GREAT face


Murray and I posing by the giant tree they have built the bird watching tower around


Murray, Me & Steve working on our bird spotting


This frog is amazingly camouflaged (another bufo)


I LOVE the colors on this guy - he is called a Epipieoboater Oiliugois (this is his belly)


Amazing coloring on some of them (and what he looks like from the top)


A cool lizard - an Anolis


And a bullet ant nest


Then we had a canoe ride looking for more birds and monkeys


Then we had to hike through a few swamps


This guy is SO tiny!! (Murray spotted this guy in amongst the leaves while he was walking!!)


These nuts are called ‘vegetable ivory’ and are used for a lot of carvings


Another amazing bit of camouflage - this guy is an Enyaloines Laticeps


Cool mushroom - these are called Chinese Umbrellas


This part of the Amazon is called the Equatorian Oriente – and is all of the lowlands east of the Andes


It is one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet (this is known as a moneky ladder vine)

The canoe was a BIT waterlogged (guess it was from all that rain yesterday).


Spot the birds…. these guys are called Hoatzins


This area is full of numerous exotic animals, forested hills, wetland marshes, big rivers and black water lagoons – gorgeous


And of course – butterflies (this is a Rionidae)


And unusual looking plants with vibrant colors

Our guide Jorge with his machete in his mouth making his way through the swamps (thank goodness for the gum boots they gave to all of us to wear!)


There were SO many kinds of butterflies


so pretty


These crested owls stared us down as we peered at them in our binoculars – I love their long pointy ears


Some more hoatzins

The swamps were quite tough to get through

You had to balance on logs so that you didn’t step in DEEP muddy spots


Although Murray had a bit of a misstep and sunk almost to his knee!!!! This is the ‘after’ photo. He felt like there was something in their biting him, so the guide pulled on his boot with all his force, which wasn’t enough, so the other assistant guide joined in, and they finally broke through the suction and got Murray’s boot off! What a mess!!!


Back at the lodge showing off his VERY muddy sock and leg!

That afternoon Murray spotted a huge family of squirrel monkeys – and set off to take some photos…….


These little guys move SO quickly

Hopping from tree to tree

And snacking

They travel 7-10km a day to find food

They are in the distance moving quickly, it´s SO hard to get a good photo of them

They are about the size of an average hand bag dog






Later we were treated to a stunning sunset with rainbows over the lake

We had another amazing dinner, played some more pictionary, and then had an early night in prep for our early bird watching tomorrow.

Day 165 – April 11

Today we got up EARLY (we left – after breakfast – for our bird watching at 6am).


Then it was time to climb the 40 meter high tower to try and spot some birds


We were SO lucky that we were able to see a family of howler monkeys in a far off tree


These photos were taken through a powerful telescope –thus why they are not very clear. But really these guys were huge – and just hanging out at the top of a tree – so cool – I watched them in the telescope for ages!


Murray attempting to take photos through the telescope – and me laughing at how funny it looked


Me peering up at Murray in the tower


It really was quite tall- and amazing that it was built around this giant tree


We saw bats at the bottom of the tree as well – hiding in a nook


We ended up seeing tons of birds (I am starting to like this bird watching thing) and the views across the jungle were amazing. We stayed up there for 2 hours.


Birds are the richest group of Amazon vertebrates, at approximately 1000 species.


You can just see the howler monkeys in the distance here


Over 500 species of trees per acre have been recorded in the jungles of the upper Amazon. If this doesn´t seem particularly astonishing, consider that this is 10 times greater than either Europe of North America, and you will begin to appreciate the significance of the conservation of this area and others like it.


We loved this scarlet crested bird called a Purple Throated Fruitcrow


Afterwards, we visited the butterfly house




An Owl Eyed butterfly



I love the contrast here

















Afterwards when we were relaxing near the lake, this guy landed on Murray’s shorts

Then it was lunchtime, afterwards a rematch in Pictionary (yes – we got a bit obsessed) and then the boys went out for one last jungle walk (I read and rested instead).


Another TINY frog - called a Dendrobates Ventimaculatos

This is the same guy in aonther position (all of the brightly colored little frogs on this blog are poisonous)

And they had a canoe ride back to the lodge in the early evening


LOOK – a bird!


Check out that neck! This is called a Anhinga (snake necked bird)


Our guide going for an evening swim – we weren’t excited about swimming here due to all the piranhas that hang out by the dock…

We spent the time before dinner fishing for piranha with fresh pieces of beef and pork. I pretty much just fed them, couldn’t manage to catch any!


Murray blue steeling with a piranha - check out those teeth!


Then Clive got the catch of the day – a MASSIVE piranha!! Even the kitchen was impressed!


The guy on the left is a normal sized piranha, the one on the right is the giant Clive caught (which was great fun since today is his birthday as well!!)

After dinner we had a GREAT cake for Clive’s birthday, and then we went out for our ‘night walk.’


The first tarantula we spotted


He was quite big – ekkkkk!


They seemed to be all over the place – which freaked me out since we were walking around in flip flops!!! (the walk was just around the grounds of the lodge) - this guy was MASSIVE - the size of a large man´s hand


A big tarantula bum


Scary


And we spotted a scorpion (Murray killed him by accident by standing on him in his FLIP FLOPS!!)


Later on, the boys had a photo session with the piranha heads (when you catch a piranha at the lodge, the kitchen cooks it up for you, and then boils the head so you can keep it)


Check out those vicious teeth!


Biting Steve’s nose


And a bit harder on Murray’s nose

After we finished filling out our feedback forms and sorting out the tip, it was time for bed and time to pack (again – bleh!)

Day 166 – April 12

Up and at breakfast by 6, then we hopped in canoes, and made our way back to the dock where the boat would pick us up. Back on for our 3 hour ride back to Coca, then we had a chance to check out some cute little monkeys before making our way to the airport.


This guy likes our camera bag!


Yummmmm oranges (I just LOVE his face – too cute)


Squirrel Monkeys are just so CUTE, these semi tame ones were completely different to the shy guys in the wild!

Then we caught our flight back to Quito, popped our for an Equatorian lunch and hit the internet place (it was raining – again). We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, and then went out to a Thai place called Siam for dinner. The soup we ordered tasted fantastic – until I felt so sick that I was doubled over – and then threw up for the first time since we have been in South America. Fun fun fun. The rest of the food was very average as well (or so Murray says – I couldn’t touch another bite). And that was that for the evening – since I needed to lie down.

Day 167 – April 13

Today the four of us got picked up at 8am in our private van which we hired to take us up to see the Bella Vista Cloudforest Reserve. The drive took two hours, then we met our guide, and set off on a nature walk.


We loved this gorgeous little flowers – they felt soft and fluffy, but hollow


These plants are picked by the local people, who make tea from the red parts and apparently it helps with period pains? Our guide Veronica said it really does work.


Lots of cool looking plants in this jungle


And gorgeous wild orchids


And amazing views down into the forest below


Some pretty little dew drops on the bamboo


And bright gorgeous flowers






And hummingbirds!!! Check out this guy´s cute little tongue poking out of his beak!
They had feeders set up near the lodge


Me showing off what they call an elephant ear - which the locals use as a natural poncho


Murray and I listening to our guide Veronica telling us some facts about the area

We had a great walk, saw a ton of birds (I am starting to like this bird watching thing)! And then we had a lovely lunch. After lunch it started to pour with rain, so we decided to just sit and enjoy watching the humming birds rather than do another hike.


Trying to take photos of hummingbirds was like trying to take photos of a fly in flight - difficult!
This is a male Booted Racket-Tail

Check out that massive tongue!



And the female Booted Racket-Tail (she doesn´t have the long pretty tail like the male)











The view over the cloudforest - also being enjoyed by the sickle-winged guan in the tree



This is a Green Violetear (we think)







Check out those yeti boots! I love them!!!




Bellavista Cloudforest Reserve comprises 7 square kilometers of knife edged mountains and deep gorges between 1400 and 2600 meters. Clothed in dense cloudforests, epiphytes, mosses, bromeliads and orchids – it really is an amazing place. The trails allow visitors access to the diverse wildlife of the Tandayapa Valley – which included 320 bird species.


Me holding the umbrella for Murray so he could take more humming bird photos

We had a GREAT day – I’m so glad we went. Then on the ride back – traffic got backed up due to a mud slide!!!


Everyone was just standing around not knowing what to do


Eventually this huge piece of machinery showed up to clear the mess


Wow it really came down!

We only had about an hour delay, then got back on our way to go see the Equator line.


Me, Murray and Steve standing over the equator line


Murray split by the equator


The monument was cool (the O at the top of this side is for Oeste – which is West in Spanish). Steve decided to kick Murray off of HIS side!


Then Murray got him back!


Me & Murray jumping at the equator


Steve & Murray

In the evening we met up with Walter, and went out to ‘Adam’s Ribs’ for a nice dinner which was ok.

Day 168 – April 14

We met the guys early today and set off to explore the old town.

Located at 2850m (9348ft) above sea level, Quito, the Ecuadorian capital, enjoys a spring like climate, despite the fact that is only 22km (14 miles) south of the Equator.


The plaza de la Independencia is gorgeous.


We loved the statues on the center


The Cathedral de Quito was built between 1550 and 1562, and was one of the first neoclassical works in Quito.


The top of the statue


There were tons of police around (but it felt very safe)– in tons of different kinds of uniforms


We walked around enjoying many of the plazas


In 1978 UNESCO declared Quito a World Heritage site, and any new development in the old town is now strictly controlled


Our first glimpse of the Virgin Mary on the hill


And a bit of lunch (no just kidding we did NOT eat here – we just liked the lunch sign)













I love this view of the Virgin

There were ladies on every single corner selling fresh produce out of baskets



Our first glimpse of La Compania de Jesus Church









There was some sort of protest going on in the main plaza




LOTS of people showed up to hear speakers on the steps (we aren´t sure why...)
Then we had our cab driver take us up the hill to see the statue of the Virgin Mary

Stunning


Then we went to see La Compania de Jesus Church is considered on of the most beautiful in the Americas


The decorations in the Compania contain approximately one to one and a half tons of gold


The construction of the church took 170 years (1605-1775)

But we think really the only beautiful parts of the church was the amazing stained glass inside


I LOVED the turtle gargoyles!
And iguanas


And anteaters and monkeys!

We met up at an Equatorian restaurant for lunch after our touristing so Murray could finally have his Cuy (guinea pig) after much pressure from the boys (since Steve and Murray talked about eating cuy for like 18 months in the office before leaving for this trip)

Murray looking super pleased to have Cuy for lunch


Yummy – deep fried too (eww)


Our last group meal – Murray, Me, Clive & Steve

Doesn’t that just look SO appetizing?

And that was that! We said goodbye to our new friend Clive, gave Steve a LONG hug (and I held back a few tears) and we were off to the airport. TWENTY FOUR weeks we traveled with Steve in South America – quite sad to say goodbye.

At the airport – kinda excited, but also kinda sad to be leaving South America


Me with our SUPER full bags – but I’m pretty impressed that we still do manage to fit into 3 bags after all these months!


And off it was with Copa Airlines to fly to Panama City (our stop on the way to Cancun where we will begin our next tour – of Central America).