Finally - The INCA Trail

Day 138 – March 15

Today we got an early 7 hour bus to Cuzco.
We stopped a few times on the way….

Murray with some traditionally dressed little girls and a baby llama


The’market’ at one of the stops


Baby llamas really are SO cute

Oh and so I finally have learned the difference between llamas, guanacos, alpacas and vicunas

Llamas are domesticated Guanacos (domesticated about 6000 years ago)
And
Alpacas are domesticated Vicunas

THAT makes more sense now – why there are 4 types. Alpacas have thinner necks and are less fuzzy than llamas. Vicunas have the most expensive fur in the world (more expensive than cashmere). It sells for around $900USD/ kilo. However they can only be sheared once every 2 years, and each vicuna only has about 200 grams of fur.


Finally we arrived in Cuzco

Cuzco is located at an elevation of 3326m, was once the foremost city of the Inca Empire, and is now the undisputed archaeological capital of the Americas as well as the continent’s oldest continuously inhabited city. It was the rediscovery of Machu Picchu in 1911 that has changed the city from provincial backwater to Peru’s foremost tourist center.
The city is famously in the shape of a Puma.

We checked out the markets a bit before heading to the post office to ship a few things.

Murray liked this mask


The Plaza de Armas is surrounded by colonial arches and the main building on the square is the cathedral.


Later we had lunch – Murray ordered ‘diet chicken’ soup and THIS came out! More like a full meal in a bowl!


Murray, Me & Rachel at lunch


The square and the surrounding city look gorgeous at night


Another church in the square

Jose booked us a great dinner out at a restaurant called Incanta and..

Murray and I tried an apple pisco – lovely! (we also tried real Pisco sours - with the egg white - and WOW they were good!)


After dinner we spotted this – how cute is his little tail hanging off the side of the seat!!


Then we went out for drinks at an Aussie bar – that’s me & Anna – future Aussies!


Murray had to take his punishment for shaving tequila shot – ewwww


Yummy


The pub had these two cute dogs that always seemed to curl up somewhere – sweet


Then we went off to the club Mama Africas for some dancing


Ali taking some photos


Jules & Murray


Cute Anna & Ali, Scary singing me & Steve (but hey – they were playing music without windpipes – it was very exciting)


Steve and I being all silly


Murray & Steve


Murray & Steve & Ali

It was a fun night – nice to get out and have a good time with the group

Day 139 – March 16

Today we had a NICE sleep in (partly due to the late hour we got back in to the hotel….)


Then it was back to the Australian pub (los perros) for a fantastic hamburger

We also had some amazing wontons – the food at that place was FAB!


On the way back I spotted this little girl and her llama – cute


Another pic of me with llama


Just a FEW stairs to conqueror


The lovely plaza again


It really is SO pretty – and the gardens are gorgeous and super well maintained


Me patiently waiting in the plaza as Murray was taking photos


The church and the Peruvian flag


The cathedral


A beautifully painted wall on Avenue Sol

Our camera is acting up again (the NEW little one). Sometimes the lens won’t come out, sometimes it won’t go in, and most of the time it just won’t turn on at all. So we scoped around town and finally found a shop that said they had a technician coming in at 5:30. So we went in at 5:30 and waited…. the so called ‘technician’ finally arrived at 6:30. He was about 90, had super super long yellow and brown gross nails, smelled a bit like urine and generally looked like he lived on the streets. But he assured us, in Spanish, that he knew what he was doing. So we left it with him to take a look at.


Meanwhile we went back to Incanta again and had an AMAZING veggie risotto


And this fabulous chicken on risotto with a lovely creamy cheese topped with berries – oh my gosh it was amazing

We went back, and he said (again – after many back and forths) – it is fixed. Yes it did look like it worked. Then Murray took the battery out and put it back in and surprise surprise – not working. The guy couldn’t understand it, and said give me some more time. This went on and on until eventually the shop closed, so they said they would bring it by our hotel when it was fixed. They came by at 11:30 saying hey look it’s fixed. Murray took out the battery and put it back in, and guess what – not working. But we were leaving the next day for the Inca Trail, so we just said thanks (for nothing) and goodbye (we had already paid at the shop). Apparently he had replaced some microchips which he said were water damaged, and he managed to gouge the case in order to open it. So I think he pretty much ruined out warranty AND it still doesn’t work. Needless to say we were furious that he replaced parts without checking with us first – we thought maybe it was just a small problem with a quick fix – guess not *SIGH*

So we just finished packing for the Inca trail and then went to bed. We were each given a duffel bag in which we were allowed to pack 7 kilograms of stuff (Including our sleeping bag and sleeping mat) – so about 3 kg of clothing. Murray and I were both actually 2 kilos under once we had packed, so we each threw in a few more pieces of clothing and our flip flops just for the heck of it. The duffel bags are the bags the porters would carry for us – thus the weight limit. We also both had daypacks that we would carry ourselves.

Day 140 – March 17

Today we got picked up early to head off on our tour of the Sacred Valley.


First stop was at a church with a beautiful view of Cusco city

We also stopped quickly to get a view of an impressive ruin quite close to the city called Sacsayhuaman (they pronounce it sexy woman).


Next stop was to Ccaccaccollo Community that GAP supports by providing yarn to the local women in order to make handicrafts to sell to tourists, and continue their traditional weaving


They had a lot of llamas about

The Women's Weaving Project was created with the women and wives of our cooks and porters from the Inca Trail.

Our guide and this lovely lady demonstrated to us how they dye the yarn in the traditional way – using local plants and boiling them in a pot with the yarn


There was a LOT of wool yet to be spun (by hand) – many different color varities as well and SO soft!!


It is amazing how many colors they can create naturally


I love how each area´s local people have their own traditional outfits and hats!


Sweet


Serious


Creating textiles


Cutie


They told us this baby llama is only 2 years old- he kept bugging the ladies while they were working by snuggling up close


Busy busy!


Not to busy for a snack though!

Next stop was a viewpoint for us to see a great view of the Sacred Valley.

The Valle Sagrado, or Sacred Valley of the Rio Urubamba is 15km North of Cusco as the condor flies. It consists of a rural colonial village alongside the river, and an Inca site dramatically located on a mountain spur 600m above.


We went to see the Inca site, but first Anna got some corn on the cob (with the biggest kernels we have ever seen!!)


Donna & Me listening to the guide explaining about the terraces on the far left – they were used for farming in Inca times


The path we followed – the Inca citadel is around the corner of the mountain


The stonework is smooth and fits together perfectly – this is how you can tell it was a sacred building


The terraces have so many microclimates that they can be used to grow a number of different kinds of crops


Murray & Steve


This stonework is even fancier


Part of the site’s ceremonial center


You can see just to the left of the doorway the Intihuatana (hitching post of the sun) – what we could call a sun dial


Lovely views


There are terraces on many of the surrounding mountains as well


The cliff behind the site is honeycombed with hundreds of Inca tombs that were plundered by huaqueros (grave robbers)


The group working their way back


Me on the cliff


More views of the citadel – you can see the different in this stonework compared to the storage building roughly created in the background






Me & Murray at the site


One last steep climb up


Next we stopped at the Pisac markets – here is me & Anna shopping for jewellery


FINALLY we arrived at the resort where we were booked to have lunch


The buffet was AMAZING (especially this awesome avocado slice)


Murray and his 2 dessert plates

Our final stop of the day was at a small shop where we saw for the first time….

A guinea pig farm!!! (They are considered a delicacy here)

The main reason we stopped there though was to try chicha – a traditional highland beer made from fermented corn.


Murray and Adam were overwhelmed by the serving sizes


There are hundreds of varieties of corn that are grown in the area


The corn is sprouted, and then it is ground up and fermented in pots to make the chicha


We tried berry and normal chicha


It is homemade and is an acquired taste (the berry one was ok – the other was just gross)


The making of chicha dates back to pre-Columbian times. It is stored in earthenware pots and served in huge glasses (although we just had small tasters) in small Andean villages and markets

And then finally we made it to our destination Ollantaytambo

The market in Ollantaytambo


The city is dominated a the massive Inca fortress – here you can see the main entrance to the (close to the steps on the right) which was used for most important Incas (thus why it is so tall – so they could fit through with their head dresses), then along the walkway you can see the 10 windows – which were used to put offerings to the god in them, finally the entrance to the fortress for the common people

Located 97km north east of Cusco, it was built by the Incas as a fortified town containing a temple and terraced fields. It was an important administrative center which probably also had a military function, as shown by its walls and towers. The village of Ollantaytambo below the site is known as the ‘living Inca village’ as its people maintain ancient customs and practices.


The way the stonework fit together like a puzzle was amazing.


Some of the stones they moved there for the fortress (with only ropes, logs and many men) were gigantic.
Me & Murray – the building you can see just to the right of Murray’s head they think was an Inca storage site for grain (the blowing wind helped keep the goods dry). The Incas also carved a face into that mountain – you can see the nose just to the left of my head


Ollantaytambo was as much a temple as a fort to the Incas. The finely worked ceremonial area sits on top of the terracing.

This Inca complex also marks one of the few places where conquistadors lost a major battle, when Manco Inca showered a force of 70 calvary men with missiles and flooded the plain below.
The stone was quarried from a mountainside 6km away, high above the opposite bank of the Rio Urubamba. Transporting the huge blocks was a stupendous feat involving the sweat and blood of thousands of workers. Murray tried to take a bit home – but it was a LITTLE heavy.


Leaving our hotel to check out the little town we saw this guy walking his cow


In the main square they were busy making gorgeous bright designs – all having to do with the upcoming Easter season

That evening we went out to a group dinner, and then went back to the hotel for some exhausted sleep (that was a LONG touring day – and we knew we had a lot of hiking ahead of us).

Day 141 – March 18


In the morning before we left we spotted this cute little humming bird


Me, Ali & Anna – ready to go with our walking sticks


Me & Murray (I have my waterproof trousers on too cause it was raining when we got to the start of the trail!!)


The Inca trail is one of the most important trekking routes in South America. Only 500 people are allowed onto the trail each day (about 150 tourists and 350 guides and porters).


Our group ready to go!!


The trail starts at km 82 – and is 40km (25 miles) long –which is completed over 4 days.

After taking care of the fees and registration formalities (every person who walks the Inca trail must be registered months in advance – we actually had to show our passports!!) it was time to cross the River and start the trail.


Murray messing around on the bridge

Just after crossing the bridge we were all give 3 coca leaves.
We then held them up to the North, South, East and West – asking Pachamama (Mother Earth) for a safe trek, then we gave them back to her by throwing them into the river.


Ali looking on in awe as a porter passes him with a HUGE load. Each porter carries 25 kilograms. Just a few years ago they used to carry up to 50kg each, but now (thankfully) the government has introduced regulations which limit the load per person to 25kg.


We had a view of the train that goes to Machu Picchu as well


We had a brief stop where our guide smeared our faces with a bit of cactus juice that they say protects you from sunburn


We also tried some cactus fruit


A little pealing

It was super seedy and spongy – not great


WOW the porters worked hard – and they practically RAN past us on the path – those are some mega fit guys!


The river Urubamba


Steve & Murray


A view of our first Inca site – Llactapata (Town on a Hillside)



Stopping for a break


Cutie

We also stopped at a campsite for lunch. When we arrived the porters had everything ready for us. First was a big tarp to put our bags on, then we each had a bucket of hot water and soap to wash our hands and faces. A lovely guy was standing alongside with paper towels for when we were finished. Then it was inside of a big tent where we were each given a yummy bowl of hot soup. This was followed by a great piece of trout along with vegetables and rice. We finished lunch off with a cup of coca tea, and then it was time to hit the trail again!


And finally we arrived at the campsite Wayllabamba (after 8km of hiking)


We had QUITE the view from there!


At the bottom of the hill near the campsite they had this ‘shopping center’


The girls chatting in one of the tents –Me, Rachel, Donna & Anna


The boys with the lovely lady who came up to sell us beers, Adam, Murray, Ali, Troels & Simon

Then it was time for ‘supper’ – which was really snack time. Some crackers with honey and jam, popcorn (YUMMMM) and or course coca tea really hit the spot.

We stayed in the dining tent until dinner time playing INKA (our version of the card game Donkey) where each time you lost you got a letter (I lost the most and by dinner time I was up to INK). (Inka is the Quecha spelling, Inca is the Spanish spelling)

Dinner again was amazing – really so so so much better than we expected. Soup to start (they love their soup in Peru), a beef main and then a lovely apple dessert. Everything tasted SO great and was beautifully presented as well!


After dinner we met the porters! Dimas (the guy in the red) – our assistant guide – did the introductions

We all introduced ourselves as well (they wanted to know our names, where we are from, how old we are, and our marital status)


Our group of 12 with our 20 porters (including the cook, assistant cook, our waiter and head porter)


Me setting up our tent for sleeping – thank goodness for head lamps they come in SO handy!

Day 142 – March 19

We didn’t sleep too bad, considering our tent was on a slope and that it was COLD. We were woken up with a knock on our tent ‘door’ at 6am – along with an arm reaching in with a steaming cup of coca tea and honey. They also left us buckets of hot water and soap just outside of our tents so we could ‘wash’ a bit before another day of trekking. (the only toilet facility at this place was a squat above long drop…. pretty awful….)


Up and ready to go again!

Breakfast was at 7 (after we had packed up our duffle bags and day bags ready to go). To start we had a very soupy porridge, followed by an amazing vegetarian omelette, bread and tea- a great start to the day! At 7:30 we were off!


Me with my tiny day bag, as a porter passes with a MASSIVE bag!


Quick pit stop to catch our breath (today was MUCH more uphill than the previous day)

We climbed up and up for what felt like whatever – Murray’s asthma was really bothering him (because of the altitude and the STEEP steps).


The llama didn’t seem to mind though


It was a long steep path - here I am pointing out the way we will have to go!


Me & Rachel catching our breath in the light rain


We crossed some gorgeous areas along the way


Murray catching up to me (thank goodness for walking sticks)


Ali, Anna, Rachel, Me & Murray posing with the amazing view


At lunch Murray managed to swipe his arm over a stinging plant – ouch!


Adam, Steve & Troels enjoyed their ‘snack’

We had a long day of trekking ahead of us, so our lovely porters met us at 10am with a ‘snack’ of ham, cheese and veggie sandwiches, tea, etc. so that we would have enough energy to make it up Dead Woman’s Pass. Oh and how could I forget – we were also given snack bags in the morning – with one piece of fruit, 2 small hard candies and a chocolate snack to eat throughout the day as we needed it.

Then we climbed – and climbed – and climbed – up the steep path to Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman’s Pass). At 4198m (13,769 feet) above sea level, this pass is the highest point of the trek.


Troels, Steve & Adam posing with the sign

Of course as soon as Murray and I arrived, it started to rain. I quickly got my bag cover on and then pulled on my waterproof trousers over my hiking trousers JUST in time. Then it started to POUR!

It was downhill for about an hour to our next campsite and it POURED the entire time. We actually put our gigantic ponchos OVER our waterproof gear because it was coming down so hard. We had to go fairly slow because the rain made the rocks quite slippery, but we still managed to get to camp at about 2pm. Murray had a fever and was feeling quite unwell, so he just laid down for a rest while I went to the food tent for lunch. We had a great quinoa soup, followed by chicken, mashed potatoes and fried rice – yumm! After that we all just went to our tents, because the poor porters were stuck standing outside in the rain while we ate (they all sleep in the food tent – other than the cook and his assistant – they have a tent, so they have no shelter other than our food tent). In total for day 2 we hiked 12 km.

Me seeing out shelter in our tent

We took a nice long nap, and man was it needed! The trekking was exhausting!!


The campsite (Paqaymayo) had absolutely stunning views once the rain cleared


But just as quickly as it cleared – the fog was back – amazing how quickly actually


Stunning


Just after ‘supper’ (snack time at 5pm) they brought the stove into the eating tent so we could try and dry our wet clothing a bit (can you tell Murray was feeling better by this point?)


Just like huddling around a campfire – sort of

After most of our clothing was reasonably dry, they took the stove back to the cooking tent to make our meal, and we passed the time by playing a game. Everyone wrote the name of a celebrity on a piece of napkin, and then stuck it to the forehead of the person to their right. Then we asked yes or no questions, moving to the next person is the answer was no, until everyone guessed who they were. I got Betty Boop, Murray got Mariah Carey.

Then it was time for dinner – soup of course, followed by a lovely spaghetti Bolognese with a special dessert of chocolate pudding (American style).

After dinner we all went straight to bed – full and exhausted. Oh and the bathrooms…. Slightly better here since there were toilets – although they had no seats! Still an improvement though on the squat ones.

Day 143 – March 20

Today we were up at 6 for our ‘Cultural Day.’

Breakfast was some yummy pancakes with ‘gap’ written in dulce de leche on them. A nice treat!

Of course the day started with an uphill trek – fun fun fun.


View down towards our camp from the first ruin of the day – Runkuraqay


Murray and I with the campsite valley in the background


A little less fog in this pic (through that valley up on the left is where we hiked down from the previous evening)


More amazing views (and gorgeous fluffy clouds)!


Our group at the top of the second pass of the trek – at 3998m (13,113 feet)


And a nice posed picture of our group of 12


Getting ready to go back downhill again
From left : Our guide Carlos, Me, Ali, Murray & Troels


Murray and I working our way downhill with our walking sticks


From the second night campsite is where the REAL Inca trail started (the original stones that the Incas laid). Much of the first part of the trail had to be replaced due to wear and tear. So the steps down were MUCH more uneven today.


The valleys were quite steep below the path as well


Me posing for a pic


And another – wow the scenery was gorgeous


The REAL Inca trail – stunning


We had a few tunnels to go through as well

Before lunch we saw the ruins Sayaqmarka and Qonchamarca, which Murray and I glanced at then went straight on because his stomach was feeling awful.

Lunch was great as always – chicken noodle soup, fried chicken with quinoa and coca tea!

Then it was time to push on again for some more hike hike hiking!


Phuyupatamarka (town above the clouds)


Murray posing with the view – Machu Picchu is hidden just behind the mountains!


We walked right along the side of Phuyupatamarka to continue on the trail


The site is beautifully restored


And is located at 3650m (11,972 feet) above sea level


The trail then continued with a dizzying dive into the cloud forest below…


following an incredibly well-engineered flight of many hundreds of Inca steps.


Machu Picchu is hidden out there somewhere!!


One last view of the ruin


Just a BIT steep! Murray & I


Down down down – amazingly the porters were RUNNING by us down the steps (now that their packs were significantly lighter from all the food we ate!)


And it was Quite slippery


Our last site of the day – Winay Wayna (forever young)


Lovely flowers on the site


Me at Winay Wayna terraces


Lovely views of the valley below


It is a grandiose terraced hillside site, with view of the valley below


There was only a few buildings – probably used for storing the crops


It was a gorgeous site perched on the mountain


With amazing views


Murray at Winay Wayna

We finally arrived at our campsite Winaywayna at 5pm, after hiking for a total of 16km.


Troels & Steve resting near their tent

First things first – we dropped off our day bags in our tents – and then went in search of the hot showers we heard they had at this camp. Then we heard – they were cold!!! Thankfully that was around the time that Dimas, our assistant guide, had also come up for a shower – so he complained – and someone must have done something because a few of us got hot showers! You just had to not think about the many inches of water in the ladies bathroom on the floor…. Ewwwww. But whatever – I was clean, and I washed my hair – it was great.

We bought a cold beer at the shop and then enjoyed our supper snack (yay popcorn again) in the eating tent.
Next of course was dinner – soup, beef, rice and fries and then Jell-O for dessert.

After dinner the porters all gathered and we had a ‘tip ceremony.’ We presented an envelope to the cook, then to the assistant cook, our waiter, and the heaMANY thanks, they said theirs and then…..


We danced! A few of the guys came in and grabbed one of the girls to dance with as they clapped and sang us a traditional song–good fun!

Afterwards we all stood in a line to shake their hands and personally thank them for carrying everything for us. A few of us girls gave kisses on the cheek as well which the guys loved! It was really a nice heartfelt ceremony – really nice guys – we were MORE than happy to tip that’s for sure!

Day 144 – March 21

Today we got up at 4am!!!! Yes 4!! We decided we wanted to be the first at the Huinay Huayna (growing young) checkpoint (which opened at 5:30) so we quickly packed up, took breakfast to go (Anna’s great suggestion), and got in the queue (FIRST)! Then we went 2 x 2 to the restrooms, ate our breakfast using our headlamps, and watched as the groups piled up behind us in the queue.

At 5:30 the checkpoint opened, and we were allowed through.

We hiked with our headlamps on for awhile, until it got light enough out to see the narrow path. Most of it was uphill and TOUGH! But the last bit was – oh my gosh – really tough. VERY steep uphill – but with a great payoff – we had arrived at Intipunku (the sun gate) after and hour and a half hike. It was from here that was caught our first glimpse of Machu Picchu – and WOW wow Wow wow – amazing.


An obligatory tour t-shirt Machu Picchu shot


And the volleyball girls and the Hoff of course


Me & Murray (you can start to see the road up to the site that the bus takes in this photo)


Stunning mountain views ALL around


A sacred stone that was used for animal sacrifices to the Gods


Gorgeous


Machu Picchu is both the best and least known of the Inca ruins. It is not mentioned in any of the chronicles of the Spanish conquistadors and archaeologists today can do no more than speculate on its function.


Machu Picchu was known for centuries by the local Quechua farmers in the area


But it was not until American historian Hiram Bingham, in search of Vilcabamba, was led to the site by an 11 year old boy on July 24, 1911, that the rest of the world became aware of its existence. At that time it was covered in thick vegetation.


Bingham and his team returned in 1912 and 1915 to clear the growth


Murray & I at Machu Picchu (old mountain)


Machu Picchu is located at 2432 meters above sea level at its highest point (lower than Cusco at 3,399m)


Just behind Machu Picchu is the steep-sided mountain of Huayna Picchu (young peak). We didn’t go up because by the time we got to that side of the ruin it had started to rain and it is a very dangerous path when it is wet (and we were exhausted…)


A view down onto the site from the Recinto del Guardian (guardhouse)


Me, Murray & Anna


The group – YAY we made it!


Us again – WOW what a view – it really is breathtaking


View towards the temples zone


To the right is the Plaza principal (main square) and the main residential area


Murray & Steve


Some believe this lost city was founded in the waning years of the last Incas as a way to preserve or rekindle their predominance. Others think it may have already become a forgotten city at the time of the conquest. Still others think that the site was a country palace abandoned when the Spanish invasion took grip.


Our guide took us on a tour and gave a lot of great explanations


A recreated roof to show us how the Incas would have covered their homes


Lots of amazing structures are all around the site


Getting a little cloudy


Murray was really feeling unwell, so sat out the guided tour – thus I was tasked with taking a few photos (I try!!)


View down from the Sector de los Templos (temple zone)


Lots of steps about


The Zona Agricola (Agricultural Zone) – the terraces were used to grow many types of crops.


Huayna Picchu in the clouds


The exceptionally high quality of the stonework at the site tells us that Machu Picchu must once have been vitally important as a ceremonial center.



They even had some llamas grazing in the main square!



When we had finished looking around, we caught the bus down to the town of Aguas Calientes, a small town nestled in the deep valley below Machu Picchu. We had lunch (well, I did –Murray still felt terrible so all he got to eat was bread), and then it was time to catch our train out of the valley! The train was 1 ½ hours to Ollantaytambo, where a private bus was waiting to take us back to Cusco. When we got back we were so exhausted that we went straight to bed and just completed skipped dinner.

Cusco main square is pretty even at night

Day 145 – March 22

We had a nice sleep in back at our Cusco hotel today. Murray was quite unwell, so spent all day in bed working on the photos on the laptop and watching TV. I ran a few errands – hit the post office, got us a new adapter for electrical devices, and picked us up some veggie sandwiches for lunch. Murray actually ate it as well – which made me glad since it was the most he had eaten in days.


One last view of the main square


The main square was known in Inca times as 'Huacaypata' a Quechua word meaning 'place of weeping or meeting.'


It was an important ceremonial location in which the Inti Raymi or festival of the sun was held each year. With the arrival of the Spaniards, the square was transformed; stone arcades and the buildings which surround it to this day were erected.

And a view of the city (thanks to Steve & his get up and go to do a tour that day!)

For dinner we went to a fun restaurant to celebrate Ali’s 31st birthday! There was singing, live music and dancers in traditional costumes which was quite fun to watch.


Hazel wasn’t happy about what most of the boys ordered…..


CUY!!! (Guinea Pig)


Doesn’t he have a lovely face?


And cute little feet


Steve was quite excited!


Ahhhh my little friend


What it looked like after having been eaten.

I tried a little, but it was WAY too gamey for me – yuck. Murray was barely well enough to come out and eat, nevertheless eat funny meats, so we didn’t order one (thank goodness- the smell was bad enough)!


And the bum


All 6 heads on one plate – nice huh?


Afterwards we went to the Fallen Angel cocktail bar to have a fancy cocktail and toast Ali’s b-day. This it the one I had called an Andean Martini – it was SO yummy!


Ali trying his drink in front of Clive


Time for a birthday shot!


Some of the guys went out for drinks afterwards – Ali & Troels being silly

Murray and I went back to the hotel, packed our bags and went to bed!

Day 146 – March 23

We were due to fly to Arequipa today, but somehow the airline managed to cancel 4 of our tickets, so we couldn’t fly. Instead Jose arranged a private bus to drive us first to Colca Canon.

We got picked up at 9:30 am and started what was due to be a 10 hour drive. We stopped for lunch at 3, and watched a TON of movies throughout the day (thank goodness for the TV and DVD player)!! We watched Reservoir Dogs, Rambo 4, I now pronounce you.., Backbeat (excellent Beatles movie!), Hairspray.

As the evening wore on, the weather got BAD - snow and rain, so our bus slowed down to a ridiculously slow speed.

Then at 9pm – our bus broke down – in the middle of frickin nowhere.

Murray posing as the driver pulled up the engine cover to tinker with it a bit

Our guide Jose got out with one of the drivers and walked the 15km back to the nearest checkpoint because there was no mobile phone reception. In the meantime we used up most of the rest of the battery by watching the movie Juno. Then we got out ALL the warm clothing we had and hunkered down to wait for a new bus and MAN was it cold!! The new bus came at 1am, and Jose had managed to get a bunch of blankets for us (hooray)! We finally got to the hotel (half awake) at 3:30am and went straight to bed.

Day 147 – March 24

We got up to hot sun – and rainbows!


We had the option of doing a hike, but most of us decided to relax near the hammocks instead (us girls even had a little picnic!)


We saw this guy hanging out near the check in desk! Apparently they have had him since he was a baby.


In the afternoon I went on a horseback ride with Rachel, Anna & Clive


My photo of the terraces in the Colca Valley – they are pre Inca terraces, but some are still used by the local farmers


Our path


Me on my feisty horse Gato Negro (black cat) - he didn't like the other horses, so we kept a good distance


Back at the hotel (near the town of Corporaque) we could see rain in the distance

Both lunch and dinner was buffet at the hotel –not bad!
That evening most of us went out to the local hot springs for a relaxing dip. We had a nice cold beer and chatted away while enjoying the mineral rich pool.

Day 148 – March 25

Today we got up early so that we could leave the hotel by 6am to go to the Cruz del Condor viewpoint.


View of the Colca Valley and the most extensive pre-Inca terracing in Peru


Canon del Colca is the world’s second deepest Canon at 3191m (the neighboring Canon del Cotahuasi is 163m deeper). In comparison – the Grand Canon in the US is 1500m deep.


This rock has carvings on it that were used to plan the extensive terracing (also one of those funny looking rabbit like animals)


The two holes with red paint coming out of them are burial sites


A little ‘shop’ at one of the viewpoint stops


Here all of the lady’s hats and most of their crafts are dominated by very detailed embroidery


Anna & Adam at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint


Ali, Troels, Simon, Steve, Murray & Me


A large family of Andean condors nests nearby this rocky outcrop (this is a juvenile female)


And we were able to see them effortlessly gliding on thermal air currents rising from the canyon


The dark colored birds are full gown, and the ones with the skin lump on their heads are male


They have amazing wingspans


I LOVE this photos – wow


Stunning


Andean Condors' wingspans range from 274 to 310 cm (9 to 10 ft)


It is a mesmerizing scene(Colca Canon), heightened by the spectacular 1200m drop to the river below and the sight of 5556m high Mismi reaching 3200m above sea level on the other side of the ravine.
Weihgts reach up to 11 to 15 kg (24 to 33 lb) for males and 7.5 to 11 kg (16 to 24 lb) for females
Although the Andean Condor is on average 5cm shorter from beak to tail than the California Condor, the Andean Condor is heavier and has a greater windspan
Overall length can range from 117 to 135 cm (46 to 53 in)



Then we did a walk along the side of the Canyon for some views


We had one bit where we had to practically crawl through a tunnel


But the views were worth it



I liked the walk!


Amazing views


Crawling on


Gorgeous canyon if you ask me!


On the way to lunch we stopped at a village where they had a bird that you could pose with so of course Murray was right in there


Murray with a bird on his head


I don’t know what kind he is – but he is a gorgeous bird (some sort of eagle or hawk maybe?)



We had an awful buffet in a small town, then got back in the van to make our way to Arequipa.


On the way we stopped at a site where tons of people have left offerings by stacking up stones – those 3 between us we stacked for our own good luck!

It was a 3 ½ hour drive to Arequipa – and on the way we did manage to see a bunch of Vicunas.

On the way into town we also saw a LOT of unfinished houses. It was explained to us that people usually leave their houses looking unfinished because of the law that says an unfinished house does not have to pay full property taxes!

When we got into town we popped out for some dinner, we found a Mexican place and shared a pretty decent meal with Anna &Ali.

Day 149 – March 26

Murray’s 33rd birthday YAY!

Today we spent the whole day just relaxing in Arequipa. We had a bit of a walk around the town, I did some secret b-day shopping with Anna (cake and fun things for the dinner celebration we had planned for Murray & Ali) and did a bit of internet (CHEAP but slow!)

Steve, Murray & Ali at Gordos Chickens (gordo means fat in Spanish – thus the poses)


That evening at dinner the boys LOVED their cake (notice the 3? Candles and the girl holding a bottle of beer candle– funny)!


The boys acting their age??

We gave everyone at the table a miniature squirt gun, and the table proceeded to decline into chaos. We had a HUGE water fight (only halted by the waiter brining food or drinks). Thankfully our table was outside and no one else was at the restaurant! Wet and messy – but good fun!!


Me & Murray (with wet hair from all the fighting)

After dinner we went to the bus station and got settled into the VERY uncomfortable seats for our journey to Nazca.

Day 150 – March 27

The night bus was MISERABLE – one of the worst ones we have done. The seats were just too short for our legs, the journey was rocky so it was hard to not be jolted out of your sleep, and the leg room was terrible – these tiny Peruvian buses are NOT great for gringos!

On the way to the hotel!

After checking into our hotel in Nazca, we laid down for a few hours to rest. At 10am we got picked up by taxis to take us to the little airport in town. We got into our little plane, and up it was for our flight to see the Nazca lines!

Lovely countryside


Our first view of the Nazca lines – the whale (ballena)

The Nazca lines are one of the world’s greatest archaeological mysteries.


Nice view of the area from the plane


The astronaut (Murray thinks he also can spot a man that looks a bit like Homer Simpson behind the astronaut…. A new discovery perhaps?)

The lines consist of patterns and pictures etched into the ground, crisscrossing a wide area of flat desert.


Mono (Monkey)

Some of the lines measure up to 10km (32 miles) in length, and yet measure perfectly straight.


Condor

The depictions are only recognizable from the air.


Arana (Spider)

This area was largely ignored by the outside world until 1939, when pilots stumbled across one of ancient Peru’s most impressive and enigmatic achievements – the Nazca lines.


Colibri (Humming Bird) – with a 130m wingspan

The lines are spread across an Impressive 500 sq km, forming a network of over 800 lines, 300 figures and some 70 animal and plant drawings.


Loro (Parrot)

The ancient lines were mostly made by removing sun-darkened stones from the desert surface to expose the lighter stones below.


Arbol (Tree) on the left, Manos (Hands) on the right

It is theorized that they were made by Paracas and Nazca cultures from 900BC to 600AD. They are claimed to be an astronomical calendar mapped out by sophisticated mathematics (and a long rope).

The flight was quite topsey turvey so everyone in the plane could get a good view.

Here you can see the horizon in comparison to the angle of the plane! We were lucky that no on got sick in our plane (one of the other groups had 3 out of 5 people get sick).


Heading back to the airport



Murray, Simon, Me & Clive


Me studying my map of the lines


Murray and I by our little plane


Some of our group after the flight

And that is all for now! We are now in Ecuador, and soon off to the jungle for 3 days (yay)! We will try and get the final South America blog up soon (one week from today we leave South America -I can hardly believe it)!!