Brasil - Part 3

Firstly, a photo that Lance took of Murray on the infamous vine swing in the Amazon jungle. You can clearly see just how high it was!

Day 21 – November 19 (cont.)

Our last afternoon in Belem

Street ‘diner’ in Belem – yup we avoid these like the plague! Interestingly they set up on the corner of the street with the customer seating IN the street taking up half the traffic lane. Adrenalin dining?

Meat window – that bottom row is cow stomachs - ewww

Murray trying on his future purchase – Lance’s Panama hat (which actually originates from Ecuador – not Panama).


Day 22 – November 20
The bus ride from Belem to Sao Luis was long, VERY bumpy and uncomfortable (11 hours overnight bus). So worth it though – our posada in Sao Luis is SO nice – gorgeous newly refurbished room, fabulous air conditioning and an awesome buffet breakfast!

Our pasada – I love this place! It’s a colonial building in the old part of town – lovely!
Murray went on a city tour – I decided to skip it and relax a bit instead

An Anaconda skin drum in the markets

Prawns (shrimp) for sale in the markets

Sao Luis is a lovely old colonial town. It’s a Unesco World Heritage site with pastel colored colonial buildings and cute cobbled streets and it is the reggae capital of Brasil! It is the only city in Brasil that was founded and settles by the French (in 1612).

In the evening we all relaxed with a lovely cold beer in the square near our posada before heading off to dinner and then watching some Capoiera (Brasillan dance like martial art).

Day 23 – November 21
Today we caught a ferry (well, the tide was so low we caught a bus to a ferry further out) to go see the town of Alcantara. Alcantara is across the Baia de Sao Marcos from Sao Luis. It’s a colonial town built in the early 1600’s by the Portuguese with extensive slave labor. It was the hub of the region’s sugar and cotton economy and many palaces were built in the area by the wealthy traders. Today it is in decline, but is still considered an architectural treasure. In the 1990’s the Centrol do Laacamento de Alcantara (CLA) constructed a rocket launching facility here for the Brasillian space program (so there’s a tiny museum about it).


The ferry ride was SO SO rocky! I’m glad no one got sea sick!

When we arrived we sorted out a local guide and got into a 4x4 for a bumpy ride up to the top of the city to start our tour.

A donkey taking a nap

Me at the fruit stall

Lovely masonry designs on the streets

Me posing in the window of one of the old crumbling palaces

A cute little boy who was hanging around and giggling when our guide started dancing in one of the windows.

A view of the church for the Portuguese from the palace ruins (the slaves were not allowed in – so they had their own church further up the hill).

Another gorgeous view

So scenic!

This is the ruins of the original church where slaves were allowed to worship with the Portuguese. However, because the slaves were allowed in the city government refused to fund the church through taxes, so it started to fall apart and two separate churches were built instead. The pole outside is the ‘punishment pole’ for the slaves – how awful.

CUTE! Puppy paws on a balcony

The local delicacy – kinda like a macaroon – lots of coconut and syrup

Nice that it even had a little handle! The stick made out of pastry was too hard to eat – the local dogs wandering around liked it though!

A little girl holding up a baby swimming – too cute!

Our guide Leticia on the boat

Steve and I heading down the beach. Alcantara is also known for having tons of Scarlet Ibis birds in residence. We saw a few when our boat pulled in, but we were told that if we went across to a small nearby island there would be a ton more to view. An Ibis is a medium sized bird with long legs – similar to, but smaller than a flamingo – which is BRIGHT red – so pretty!

We walked 20 minutes down the beach, then climbed around these rocks – THEN we saw that the tide was too high and we’d have to turn back. Very disappointing :(

Just as we were leaving the island we saw our ride back – a catamaran – had already left the dock! Luckily they slowed down and allowed us to board quickly from our little fishing boat. Murray sat on the top front of the catamaran for the ride- I sat in the back and had a nice nap while sitting up – I’m getting quite good at that!

When we got back to the dock at Sao Luis we heard a terrible screaming and went to go and see what it was. These pigs were being carried off to a waiting truck from a very smelly boat – sad.
But on a lighter note – our badges of unemployment are coming along nicely!

Oh and a photo of Murray in the bell tower at Alcantara

That evening we had a fantastic Pizza (best so far in South America) with Lance and Shelly and Steve. So glad that Shelly is feeling better now, she had quite a bad bug so they arrived one day later than the rest of us to Sao Luis.

Day 24 – November 22 (Thanksgiving)!
In the morning we were picked up by a small bus and rode 4 hours to the city of Barreirahas – near Parque Nacional Dos Lencois Maranhenses.

The park is 1550 square kilometers of National Park and the name refers to the immense dune which look like lencois (bed sheets) strewn across the landscape.
In the late afternoon after checking in (to our dumpy posada) we were picked up and taken in a 4x4 on a VERY bumpy ride (sand is tough to drive in) to see the dunes, swim and watch the sunset.

Steve swimming near the dunes in one of the few lagoons left (it’s dry season now).

It really is a beautiful place

Me & Murray at the dunes

Murray pinching the sunset

Murray running down the dune with his big camera!

We got teased that evening for having matching outfits - ha ha!


Day 25 – November 23
We quickly packed up in the morning and headed down to the dock to catch our boat to Cabure.

Bustling street view outside of our posada in Barreirnhas (we were NOT in the nice part of town – quite a gamey smell around due to being near the meat markets).

We made three stops on the way to Cabure. After 40 minutes on the boat (lovely view – lush gorgeous mangroves – or as they call them ‘mangue’ and thick jungle) we stopped at some dunes.

It was a tough climb up for me! Thank goodness for the rope!

But this one was even tougher (that’s me on the right – climbing up while using my hands for support).

Murray and I on the dunes

Our crazy guide doing a cart wheel down the steep slope!

Murray ‘holding’ Lance, Me, Steve and Shelly


Lance enjoyed some coconut water after that tough climb!

We even managed to see a few of those elusive Ibis birds!

Our second stop was to see the Mandacuro lighthouse.

Great view from the top of the lighthouse

View of the village from the top

As we were leaving there was a little picnic table set up by the dock with tons of cashew fruits. The guy let us all sample cashew fruit wine, liquor and even some fresh roastes cashews! (They roasted the nut attached to the fruit, then smashed open the hard shell to get out the cashews which were just like we all know them! Yummy!)

Then finally we arrived in Cabure which is located along the Rio Preguica in the Parnaiba Delta. The Parnaiba Delta is the only delta to open to the Atlantic Ocean, and the only delta in the Americas to face the open sea. It’s a 2700 sq. km. expanse of islands, beaches, lagoons, sand dunes and mangrove forests. Cabure is VERY remote, and it’s a peninsula so has an ocean and a river side.

Lunch – WAY overpriced and decent (but way too greasy) prawns, rice, and salad.
After lunch we went for an ocean swim (really really rough!) and then a relaxing swim in the river (nice – but a strong current). Then it was time to do what they do best in Cabure – rest….

Catching up on the Brasil lonely planet guide book

Lovely sunset

The frog that I spotted in our sink which then proceed to jump TOWARDS me – there was a loud scream that’s for sure. His big black eyes scare me.

Our lovely room – not. The clay roof tiles somehow had bits fall off in the night and it got ALL over our stuff. So annoying.
Although the area is gorgeous – we all could not wait to get out of there. The accommodation was too basic, the food was WAY overpriced, and the beaches were not clean (rubbish all over the place). The place really has a lot of potential – shame really.

Day 26 – November 24
Firstly – today is our 7 year of meeting anniversary – YAY for us J
Today we were picked up by two 4x4 trucks (one Land Rover Defender and a big silver truck). We then did a 4 hour really tough going drive to Parnaiba. We literally drove down the beach, over dunes, and on remote ‘sand roads’ through tiny towns. It was a bumpy ride, but kinda fun. I couldn’t believe that we were actually driving down a beach – for ages – and not one person or buildling could be seen from the truck! We stopped briefly for lunch, but had to rush because we had to beat the tides in order to complete our journey. We got to Parnaiba in the early evening then went out for an awesome meal. Definitely our best meal in South America so far. Nothing fancy – just chicken with bacon, rice, potatoes and salad. But it was cooked SO lovely – light and perfect. Afterwards we stumbled upon HEAVEN – a kilo ice cream shop!!!! You could scoop yourself whatever kinds you wanted, then add sprinkles and chocolate sauce – then you just paid by the weight of your selections!

Murray loved his ice cream!

On the way back we stopped to pick up some water and found Fanta Uva (grape) Light – very exciting since our whole group LOVES Fanta Uva – but we had never seen light one’s before!

Day 27 – November 25
Today we got up early to do an excursion into the Parnaiba Delta.

Not such a big deal here to ride in the back of a truck! (that’s Lance, Leti and Shelly in the back).

When we got to the docks we saw this boat float by – with horses standing up inside the boat!!!! Quite unusual! We actually saw this boat dock as well, the horses bolted, but eventually came back.

The Delta ride wasn’t great. The guide spoke zero English and we learned little to nothing. Also the boat was so loud it scared all the animals away, and we went too late in the morning so the sun was too boiling hot for any animals to be out and about. Oh well, the view was nice, it was relaxing, and you guessed it – it beat being at work! Ha!

We did make one good stop though to see crabs (the guide actually stuck his arm in up to his shoulder at one point – searching for crabs)

He caught a male and female crab for us to see – interesting!

Heading back to our boat after the crab viewing

It was a three hour tour. It was ok, and the mangroves are pretty to look at. But we only saw 1 monkey, 2 crabs and a few random birds. Bummer – ah well.
After the tour we checked out of the hotel (sad, since it was the first hotel we have stayed at that had a pool – SO nice) and got back in the 4x4s. Then we did another crazy 4 hour drive down remote beaches, sand dunes and through mangrove forests to get to Jericoacoara.

We had to take a ferry at one point with BOTH vehicles on board – that was interesting!
This shows just how closely we drove to the water – I loved the view!!!


This was our second raft ride – unbelievable! The raft was barely big enough to fit our vehicle. We had to all get out (in case the truck rolled off – so we wouldn’t drown) and cling to the side as we crossed this rough expanse of water. The boat men punted us across – literally used sticks to push the raft through the rough water!!! It was really amazing – and we were REALLY glad to get back onto dry land on the other side unscathed!


Steve, Me, Meir and the pole guy on the raft

Then finally in the early evening we arrived in Jericoacoara. The city is pronounced Jher-ee-kwah-rah, but is also known as ‘Jeri.’ It is a trendy beach town village with 5 sandy streets wedged between the broad beach, a series of grassy hills, and the majestic Por do Sol (sunset) dune.

OH MY GOSH I love our hotel (posada) – I never want to leave. We can see the sunset dune from our room, and wow what a room. It reminds me of photos of those 5 star African safari places. Lovely big bed with mosquito netting all around, beautiful winding wooden staircase up to our room, hammocks on the balcony, and best of all – slatted windows that let through the great breeze and keep the room nice and cool. It’s simple – but gorgeous. I am thrilled that was get to stay here til Friday – YAY! (and it's brand new! they only opened 4 months ago)! Although the whole area is pretty new - they only got electricity 10 years ago when it started to be known as the place to go for kite and wind surfing.

I LOVE our room!!

We had a nice group dinner out in town – we all decided to eat at a place called Pizza Banana. The pizza was great (although VERY cheesy) and the chicken lasagna was….


Unbelievable cheesy!!! Wow – good though!
On the way back to the posada the boys checked out a hammock store

Steve and Lance never wanted to leave!

Day 28 – November 26

The town is cute! Very touristy – but in a good way. Nice shops with great clothing, shoes, hats, etc. Lots of nice restaurants to choose from, a nice little grocery store, just perfect! This area is known for kite surfing because it’s SO windy – but I think we’ll pass and just spend the next few days relaxing and walking the beach instead.

There are tons of dune buggies around – good for the super sandy roads I suppose


The view of the pool at our posada – where we spent most of the day! Oh and can I just say – ummm most amazing breakfast yet! Freshly made juices (we had mango and passion fruit mixed) and freshly made chocolate crepes, along with pieces of mango and cantaloupe (or as Murray would call it – rock melon). Yummm yummm yummm!

And they don’t call it the sunset dune for nothing – lovely!


Lovely savoury crepe for dinner – fantastic (chicken, veg & cheese)

And a mojito to finish the night off right!

The group having a drink – from left
Shelly, Lance, Steve, Leticia, Me & Murray enjoying a super fresh pineapple cocktail – they decided what drinks were on offer by checking out the fruit bowl at the bar – you can’t get fresher than that!

Day 29 – November 27

Today we got up early – well, 8 – and had lovely fresh made omlette’s before heading off on a walk to see Pedra Furada – the arched rock the area is known for.

The view out front of the town – low tide & the dunes

We didn’t have a guide, just walked and walked and walked – knowing that it was in a general direction. We ended up walking too high up on the hill and had to double back, making a 50 minute walk much longer, but it was worth it in the end.


Me & Murray at Pedra Furada


There was even guys with fresh coconuts out at the rock – yummm!


I am starting to like coconut water (as they call it) – it’s clear but tastes milky – best cold!

We had a nice swim on the way back, and then relaxed for a bit out of the sun and watched a movie on the laptop (Zodiak – quite a good movie I must say). After resting up (walking in the sun is tiring!!) we caught the sunset and then had a nice dinner (crepes again – yumm) on our own. Oh and on our way into town we caught a bit of a Capoeira demonstration (that dance like martial art) and wow the guys were amazing! Limbs flying all over the place – handless cartwheels like crazy – and all to a cool drum beat and chanting!

Dune buggy sunset


View from the dune – those aren’t ripples, they are big long waves - perfect for wind surfing.

Us at dinner

Day 30 – November 28

Today we took it easy (ahhhhh nice just relax for a few days). Walked with Lance, Shelly and Steve on the beach, swam a bit in the pool, climbed the dune for a bit of jumping off the side, and that’s about it!

Walking in front of the dune


Murray dune jumping


and relaxing in the hammock at our hotel – checking out the sunset dune


Murray and the really nice local artist who took a protective spike from a fish that Murray found in Cabure…..

….and made it into an amazing necklace! It’s very sharp with barbs – but looks so cool!


Day 31 – November 29

Today is Leticia’s (our guide) golden birthday! 29 on the 29th! Some of us (us 5, Leti and Mayer) were picked up by boogies (as they call them here – we would call them dune buggy’s) and we went out on a day excursion to a lagoon.


We stopped on the way at a place to get fresh coconut water, and there were pigs ALL over the place that only eat coconut! After you finish drinking yours, you toss them the coconut and thye chow down – bizarre!


I think he only liked me for my coconut

When we finally got to the lagoon it was like heaven! Beautiful blue water, tables and chairs IN the water, sun loungers and hammocks suspended over the water – lovey!


Shelly and Lance taking it easy in the sun

Murray and I showing off our team t-shirts


On the way back we stopped and poked around in the water a bit and found these HUGE starfish! (please disregard my crazy post boogie hair)


On the way to and from the lagoon we again caught a ride on these man powered rafts

Murray tried a bit of sand boarding too! Very tough as you can’t turn, you just sink it straight away and then try to stay standing up! The hike back up is the worst!!

Showing off the team t-shirts (FINALLY – we kept forgetting to get a group photo)! Only 4 weeks in now – opps!
Lance, Me, Murray, Shelly & Steve doing a silly pose

Bikini, Hoff, Bikini, Hoff, Bikini

Us again – I feel so tall!

After a long day at the lagoon, we all spent the evening at the posada relaxing. The ladies at the posada made us dinner – and we asked them to do baked potatoes rather than rice (oh gosh are we sick of rice)!! BUT they turned out a little tiny bit burnt on the outside….

It was still lovely inside though!

The birthday girl and her super duper yummy chocolate cake

Murray relaxing before dinner (we’re starting to figure out how to get comfortable in a hammock)!

I like the hammock chairs too

A few of us (Leti, Steve, Shelly, Murray and I) decided to go out after dinner as Thursday night was supposed to be a big reggae night. However, after wandering around for ages it was determined that nothing would get going until 1:30ish in the morning, so Murray and I gave up and went back to get some sleep.


A common site in Jeri for some reason…. a cow eating garbage – odd. I gave him some room when I walked by - just in case - ewww!

All in all a nice day though:)

Day 32 – November 30
Today slept in until just before breakfast was due to finish (had to get just one more of those amazing omlette’s!!) and then packed up and headed out. We got into this bizarre open sided bus thing and drove down the beach for an hour to a little town where we caught another bus. I just can’t get over how strange it is that the ‘road’ is along the beach – so strange!! The second bus took us 4 hours – greatly helped by the movies they showed IN ENGLISH! The volume was turned down super low – but we could catch bits here and there – enough to follow along (they showed ‘The family man’ and ‘Legends of the Fall’ love love loved it). We got to Fortaleza at 8:30pm, then waited for a few hours at a nearby café before hopping on our night bus heading for Natal.

Day 33 – December 1
The night bus was long and uncomfortable, as usual. The buses were actually so much nicer in Venezuela, I miss foot rests! So we are here now in Natal – which is just around the ‘horn’ of Brasil on the East coast. It seems to be a large city, and our posada has a lovely view of the sea. Tomorrow we catch a short bus 2 hours South to Praia de Pipa – a nice little beach town where there is supposed to be good dolphin watching. Looking forward to that!