Firstly a BIG happy b-day to my hubby Murray who is 33 today, and a big happy b-day to his birthday twin Shelly who is also 33 today. One more happy b-day to our beloved godchild Abigail who is 4 today:)
Day 124 - March 1
Today we got the bus at 9:30am (private bus thank goodness) to
Potosi. We arrived to MUCH honking and a dusty dusty city. Eventually we checked in, turned in all our dirty clothes to be washed, and then headed out to dinner (I had a lovely
greek salad).
Then we came back to this.....
Our clothes being 'dried' on the hotel lounge furniture!! Let's just say we were NOT happy - I was just praying our clothes didn't end up smelling like an old couch!
Day 125 - March 2
A little info about
Potosi.... situated at 4070m(13,350ft),
Potosi is the highest city of its size on earth. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage site in 1987 in recognition of its tragic history in the mining of silver during the time of Spanish colonization.
Potosi provided a large share of the silver mined and shipped back to Spain until the early 1800's, when both the supply and world market prices for silver began to decline
Today we got picked up at 9am for our mine tour of
Cerro Rico, the silver rich mountain that overlooks town.
The bus broke down on the way there so Adam and
Troels got out to push
First we stopped at the miner's market to buy gifts for the miners. Here is our guide showing us the dynamite we could buy.
Murray with dynamite and SUPER strong alcohol that the miners drink
Bags and bags of the
accelerant (amino nitrate - also used in fertilizer) that is used to increase the explosion
Then it was time to get all geared up for the tour
Our group (from left) Donna, Ali, Murray, Hazel, Adam, Steve, Me &
Troels
Looking up the street towards the mining mountain
We had to walk for a bit because the van couldn't make it up steep parts with all of us in
There was just one miner working the day we went on the tour, because it was a Sunday
The view of
Potosi from the mountain.
Potosi was a name given by an
Incan r
uler who witnessed rocks exploding on their own (due to the extreme cold). He thought that the exploding rocks meant that the mountain was telling him to stop the mining because it was meant for others. 100 years later the Spanish came in to mine with no problems - perhaps the Inca was right?
Some people live near the entrance to the mine, they guard the tools at night
Working conditions used to be (and remain) appalling. A large portion of the indigenous population was decimated (in the 1800's ), so African slaves were brought in to replace the native workers. It is estimated that at least 8 million people died in the mines during the first three centuries of Spanish colonial rule from diseases, accidents or contact with toxic chemicals.
Me posing at the entrance to the mine (the red marks above the entrance is blood from llamas that are sacrificed to bring good luck to the miners - so that
tio - the god of the mine - will drink that blood, not theirs)
My hair band worked well as a dust mask!
We stopped to chat to the miner who was working cleaning and clearing the paths while most people had the day off
He told us about his job and what it is like to work in the mine. Two years ago silver was worth much less, so it only cost $400
USD to buy into the coop (to own part of the mine ) - today it costs $20,000
USD to buy into the coop!
You can see here he is holding a bag of coca leaves. The miners take a bag in to chew all day, they know exactly how many leaves to bring so that w
hen they are done with
the bag, they know the working day is over. You can also sort of see here how he has a huge ball of leaves in his cheek.
Now days, mining is a good business. Miners can make up to $1000
USD for just 3 day's work. However, it's a live hard and fast sort of
existence. Most miners die around the age of 50, so they like to spend their money on fun things - there are 14 hummers in the city of
Potosi (meanwhile most of them still live in mud brick shacks).
There is also a lot of iron in the mine that
seeps out onto the ground
A view down one of the many VERY deep tunnels
Heading into the tunnels. The average outtake from the mine is 2% silver and 8% zinc, the minerals are low grade and require a lot of refining. The price of minerals has gone up 1000% in the last 2 years.
Me climbing up a steep bit.
And a ladder (over a HUGE hole - kinda scary....)
Me & Murray modelling my hair bands in the mine
Murray inspecting the ceiling
Steve & Murray holding up the ceiling
Ali approved of the tour
We climbed, walked, and crawled our way around the mine. We even stopped at a 'museum' in the middle of the mountain - bizarre! Back in the museum we were introduced to 'Tio' (which means uncle in Spanish). He is the devil 'god' of the mine. The miners regularly come to the statue of tio to make offerings (of coca leaves, alcohol) in order to have luck finding minerals, and to keep them safe. He is called tio, instead of dio (god) because the original workers could not pronounce the letter d in their language (quechua).
Troels with our guide, preparing the dynamite for the explosion
It was a really interesting and harrowing tour.
After the tour, we headed back to our new hotel (they had to move us for our second night in town - fun fun)
We thought it was hilarious that our shower head was held up by a small piece of wire
Later on we went shopping - Murray LOVED this hat:)
And we went for a walk up to the lovely plaza
Although since it really is the highest city in the
world, it gets CHILLY in the afternoon!
We saw this gorgeous little guy in the market area
Our hotel - just a BIT under construction (luckily it was MUCH nicer inside)
Day 126 - March 3
Today we got taxis to Sucre. It took about 3 hours, and we luckily got to share with Anna & Ali.
We had to laugh when we saw this guy on a suit buzzing around town on his dirt bike
There was a big protest going on in town, it's a normal regular thing in Bolivia.
We
checked into our LOVELY hotel, and then went around to the Joy Ride Cafe for a fabulous late lunch. After resting a bit, we ended up in Jules' room for charade and
caipirinahs with the whole group. That was good fun!
Me
tyring to get across something in charades
Murray working hard with his charades clue
Day 127 - March 4
Today we went on a city tour.
In 1640 Sucre was the second most important city in the world due to it being the stopping off point for silver on it's way to Spain. The legal way to move silver was through Chile - the illegal way was through Argentina (which actually means silver). 160,000 people lived in Sucre, while only 60,000 lived in Paris, 80,000 in London and 200,000 in Napoli.
First we went to the Museo de Arte Indigena, which had some amazing displays on how the locals weave amazing handcrafts.
We even saw some weaving in action!
And some of the costoumes that people wear during celebrations (cool cow head mask huh?)
View up towards the mountains surrounding Sucre
Next we went up to the Mirador del Recolta where we bought a few handwoven crafts
And we got a lovely view of the city
Now THOSE are some dry heels - ouch!
We also went to the Casa de la Libertad, an ornate house where the Bolivian declaration of independence was signerd in 1825.
And then on to Parque Bolivar - a gorgeous park
Finally we went to the huge marcado (market) which had tons of gorgeous fruit and veg
Lovely
yuck and it had a meat market section
Ewww can you tell what this is?
Hazel, Steve & Ali exploiring the markets
Later that afternoon Murray found one of the local famous chocolate shops
We just loved our hotel - this is the lovely courtyard
In the evening we all went back to the joy ride cafe to see a documentary called
'The Devils' Miner.' It was an excellent film, so harrowing and SO very moving. It told the story of a 14 year old boy in Potosi who had to work in the mine's after school in order to support his family, so sad.
Day 129 - March
It was raining cats and dogs today when we woke up, so the bike ride we had planned to do was out. Instead we had a nice lunch and then went to see some dinosaur footprints!
The truck even had dinosaur claws on it - too cute
Donna and I obviously didn't know about the claw making photo! That's Ursula, Jules , Anna & Ali in the back
The girls posing att the entrance to the park
Jules, Ursula & Anna sharing one umbrella in the pouring rain
The park had some amazing life size models (the park is only 2 years old)
Tectonic plates pushed what used to be a lake shore up into montains, which were mined for the nearby concrete facotry. When the miners got to the rock where the footprints were, they
worked their way through the softer rock all around, until they discovered the footprints.
These walls display the largest dinosaur footprint track site in the world
Along with some great dinosaur replicas
Me spotting the loch ness monster!
Ali was shocked by this sea monster
The view of Sucre from the museum
Murray and I at the dinousaur footprints wall
On the way back I got to sit by the driver's cutie little girl
We saw all these people lined up in town - we weren't sure why??
Day 129 - March 6
Today we decided to go horse riding.
We got cabs down to a park where our horses were just hanging about...
Ursula like her horse!
Me getting to know my horse - Montserrat
Me & Anna, waiting while our horses had a snack
We rode through the town - which was a BIT muddy from the rain
We saw pigs ALL over the place - just on the side of the road
Ursula & the cowboy (with his extra horse) leading the way
We got quite a view of the city once we got a bit further up
More pigs (there was dogs, pigs, sheep and goats ALL over the place!!!)
The views just outside of the city were Gorgeous
My horse - all slow - we were always at the back of the group
Murray with his super fast horse Hudson
We had a bit of a river crossing
And the a little hike (Anna & Me)
Before getting to our destination - siete cascadas (7 waterfalls)
We had a picnic lunch up by the second and third waterfalls, and then went to explore a bit more before heading back
Me & the first waterfall
Murray wanted to try a bit
We spotted these two on the way back - cute
Me walking my horse up to the path back
Anna, Ursula, Me & Troels
Me & Anna on the 2 hour ride back totown (on the way back I found out my horse wasn´t just slow - she was just pregnant!! ohhhhh)
We got see a lot of locals on the way back (we felt like were were in a parade - with all the cute little kids popping their heads out of windows waving and saying HOLA!)
Cuties yelling HOLA to us
On our way back to town
A local lady preparing wool for weaving
When we got back to town it was PACKED for another protest
Me trying to get through
That evening, we went out to dinner and Anna & I were surprised with a joint b-day celebration (her b-day was just before mine, but we hadn't had a chance to celebrate properly)
Anna & Ali in their b-day hats
Murray (with his toy gun) and Me
Jules & Hazel seem to have got targeted by the boys
Murray and I liked our local beers
Steve holding Dale up
Ali, Troels & Simon
Lovely party decorations!
Me with our lovely guide Ursula
Love the balloons!!
And GREAT food!
Me with the fabulous chocolate cake that Ursula had made for us
Anna did really like the cake - she didn't need to have a gun to her head!
Afterwards we headed upstairs for some dancing
Donna, Steve, Jules & Me
Dale & Troels cutting up the dance floor
Simon cheering Ursula on
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Troels - always the entertainer
Steve and Jules goofing around
It was a fun night
Dance, dance, dance
Troels and Steve playing London Bridge is falling down
Ha ha - silly fun
We LOVE dancing!
Murray with his weapons
Troels and Ursula striking a pose
Troels showing us his Spice Girls look
Hazel & I
Me, Donna & Jules
Me & a pondering Steve
Troels - always the character
Day 130 -March 7
**My 29th b-day!!
Today we slept in, had some leftover cake for breakfast, packed, then went out for a pizza lunch before taking advantage of the free wifi in the hotel one last time before catching our night bus to La Paz. When we got to the bus station we had to check in our bags on the second floor, then go down to the ground floor to get onto the bus. That was when we saw them lowering our bags with ropes down to the ground floor!! Ha ha - i feel bad for the guy who got stuck catching our mega heavy bag on the way down!
Day 131 - March 8
Today we arrived in La Paz, a bustling busy busy city.
At 4000m (13,120ft) above sea level, La Paz is the highest capital city in the world. Although Sucre if the official capital of Bolivia, La Paz is the Bolivian centre of commerce, finance and industry, and the de facto captial. It´s center is at the base of a canyon 5km (3 miles) wide with sprawling impromptu housing all the way up the surrounding hillsides.
We saw lots of ladies with the traditional hats on
The streets were packed with market stalls
Even fish is for sale on the street!
RIGHT next to the cars - fume fish anyone?
Quite chily at the markets
We spent the day taking it easy, exploring the city a bit, and booking our bike tour for the following day.
That evening we all went out for a LOVELY Thai dinner at a restaurant owned by a friend of Ursula.
Nice atmosphere and great food!
Day 132 - March 9
Today we got up early and caught our bus out to bicycle down the famous ´World´s Most Dangerous Road´
Ít was COLD at the start - snowing so much that we actually started a bit further down than usual
One of the trucks loaded up with bikes
Time to get out and get suited up for the ride
Cold and chilly - I decided to put my waterproof trousers over my own trousers and then the water resistant pair they gave us
Murray and Ali showing how lovely the weather was at the top
Murray & I with our bikes - ready to go!
Beautiful views, but MAN was it cold!!!
At the first stop my hands were completely numb (which was scary since you had to keep your brakes on pretty much the whole time since it is all down hill). So 4 of us girls got off our bikes and got back into the truck to thaw our hands (we all had tears in our eyes it hurt THAT bad).
We got out a few stops later, for the uphill bit, the altitude made it SO hard to breath though.
Me riding by
Then we got to the start of the World´s Most Dangerous Road - can you tell why it´s called that''
Stunning views
Me riding away
The edges were SO steep - kinda scary
Murray & Me
Stunning
Troels & Murray showing off
Lots of beautiful waterfalls
It was all good fun until....
coming around one of the very narrow corners (huge cliff drop and VERY narrow rocky road)...
I (Monique) hit a big rock somehow and flew off my bike into the ditch (which of corse was also made out of rock)
I landed on my knees with my left arm out to stop my fall. When I sat up and checked myself, I seemed fine, then my shoulder made apopping noise as it went back into place. I got right back on (my first thought was NO I don´t want to ride in the van!!!) But when I got down to the next stop and saw Murray I started to cry again, although I was ok. I put up my arm to look at something, while deciding if I wanted to continue on, then my shoulder made a BIG popping noise - back into socket properly I guess. So just to make sure i didn´t hurt myself further, I rode in the van for the rest of the trip (at least I did ride about 2/3 of the rode).
Anna decided to put a BIT more sunblock on
Ride on!
Stunning views
Border control (how funny is this checkpoint - just a guy with a notebook and a chain)
Finally we arrived at La Senda Verde - an animal reserve where we were due to have lunch
Close to a lovely river
Troels liked the monkeys
They had rescued parrots too
The monkeys kept trying to steal people´s lunch
On the way back we took the ´new road´ which they spent 350 million USD on.... these walls were built to help prevent landslides. The road has pretty much crumbled now, even after all that investment.
The bus ride back took 3 1/2 hours in a miserable cramped little van, by the time we got back it was dark and we were all completely exhausted! We helped pass the time by playing the band game where you had to think of a bank that started with the last letter of the previously named band - got quite old by the time we finally got back to La Paz though!
Day 133 - March 10
This morning we went to Hospital del Sur so that I could see a doctor about my shoulder since it was terribly sore!
I saw a great doctor who checked my shoulder and said it was fine, but I insisted on an x-ray just in case. It ended up being fine - no breaks or fractures of anything - so he hooked me up with a brace just to rest my arm for a few days, a prescription for some anti inflamatories and we were off!
We took our lovely guide Ursula out to lunch in a lovely nearby area as a thankyou for helping us at the hospital (as our translator).
Ursula and I had some lovely soup!!
Yummmmm my onion soup
We had white tiramisu for dessert and WOW was it heavenly!
Ursula and I shared it
Later that afternoon Murray and I had a wander about town
The street was PACKED!
That evening we decided wanted Thai again - so back to the same restaurant it was! Me with my sad I have one working arm face.
Our satay chicken starter was FAB!
Murray loved being able to cook his own starter at the table (notice anything different about him??)
Our last group dinner with Ursula:(
Day 134 - March 11
Today we just explored a bit, did some internet, and took it easy.
It seemed like every street was packed with market stalls
Amazing the loads people carry with blankets on their back
We also went by the Mercado de Hechiceria (Witches Market) where they sell all sorts of things including potions, incantantions and of course llama fetus´s which are burned to protect people from evil spirits.
Some of them even had fur! They looked like littlre stuffed animals - sad:(
Ewwww they just look SO nasty (the back) are the sort of thing sthey burn as well - the contents depend on what you are asking the gods for.
Me checking out the markets
Busy, busy, busy
More witches´market
Some of the street sellers completely close themselves into their ´shops´- so biarre!
That evening we met our new tour leader (for the next 5 weeksthrough Quito) Jose (who is also from Peru). We also met othe one new member to our group - Clive from New York City. We looked through our schedule, got a small pizza, and then went to bed:)
Day 134 - March 12
Today we got an early 3 hours bus to Cochabamba where we had lunch.
The ferry we took
Well, at least the ferry our BUS took (we took small boats instead and met our bus on the other side)
Fish anyone?
Then it was time to cross the border into Peru!! From there we got onto a REALLY nice bus and travelled the final 3 hours to Puno. The countryside we drove through was absolutely gorgeous!
Granted we have NO photos because our camera started acting up on the ferry (i.e. the lens wouldn´t close) .... yes this is our NEW little digital camera - you can only imagine how upset we were!
Finally we arrived in Puno, checked into our lovely hotel, and went out to a nice group dinner. Murray and I shared a fab Alpaca steak, he tried Jose´s cow heart starter (ewww) and we both tried
Inka Cola for the first time (I´d say it´s a cross between cream sode and mountain dew - too sweet for my taste)!
Day 136 - March 13
Puno, located on the shores of Lake Titicaca, is located at 3820m (12,529 ft) above sea level.
We got tuk tuk´s down to the port (how CUTE are they??)
Steve and Troels were gaining on us so we asked our driver to peddle faster!!
Ali & Anna in their tuk tuk
We stopped at the port to buy gifts for our homestay families and came acroos this ´Fanny´tuna - that kept the whole group laughing for about 15 minutes
An inventive way to sell hats!
Map of Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca is located at 3820m and is touted as the higest navigatable lake in the world. This isn´t entirely true, it is simply the best known. However it is the largest lake in South America, over 170km (106 miles) in length, and the largest lake int he world above 2000m (6560 ft).
After buying gifts for our families (food staples and toys for the kids) we went down to the port (the water was SO green from algae!!)
The group getting onto our boat
Murrray & I drying out from the rain on the boat
First we stopped at the island of Taquile (after a 3 hour boat ride to get there).
It was a long exhausting walk to the town - but gorgeous views
Murray, Ali & Troels
It really was a lovely walk
On the way we spotted this lady spinning wool.
Taquile is unique in that the men of the community do ALL the knitting (it is strictly a male domain) while the women do the spinning!
A cow crossing the main square
These local girls pressured pretty much the whole group into buying hand knit bracelets
There was also some great markets (the black scarves the ladies wear on their heads are not part of their traditional clothing, they came from Spanish influence).
The main square
Little cutie
We walked around the square a bit, then headed off to where we would have lunch - this little cutie was hanging on a a fence on the way
This little girl was hiding around the corner at the house where our lunch would be
This gorgeous little guy was having fun playing hide and seek with us as we ate (by hiding behind the table cloth)
It´s good to share
SO cute!
He loved the snake finger puppet we gave him
Their older sister was holding onto the baby
The setting was stunning
They loved seeing what they looked like in the photos
Anna playing hide and seek at lunch
The lovely trout they seved (after a fabulous quinoa soup for starters)
I asked for the trout alternative - which was a veggie omlette (SO nice)... but first time I have had an omlette with chips (fries) INSIDE it - odd !
Then we tried Moonya tea for the first time (kinda pepperminty - I loved it)!
The view from lunch of boats going out on the lake was stunning
Our group at lunch
This little guy must be married?? when they wear their hats down like this it means they are married, when they wear the top part straight up it means they are single!
Lovely pic
He was quite the little salesman (we ended up buying yet ANOTHER bracelet)!
Me on the way down (400+ steps!!)
We couldn´t believe how much this guy was lugging up those SUPER steep steps!
As we were leaving, we could see all the terraces (which they use for farming) - they really make the island look quite unique.
Then we got back on our boat, to head over to the island of Amantani.
We were met there by our ´mamas´who would take us to their homes to spend the night.
Our house had a pen of cute little sheep
Me outside our house
This guy looks like he is trying to escape
After dropping off our bags at our homes for the night, we went to watch the boys play some football against the locals.
Two cute little guys who were watching the football
The guys - our guide, Simon, Ali, Steve, Adam, Troels & Murray
Checking out the match
Everyone was quite interested
Cute
Lots of people still live on the island
Welcome!
I think this guy´s face has a lot of character
After lunch we popped into the little shop for a fabulous hot chocolate - and Anna spotted a lady walking in with this gorgeous little baby llama!
Then Murray and I returned to our home. We hung out in the kitchen while the ladies cooked - and we chatted as best as we could with the father of the family (thank goodness they spoke Spanish as well as Quecua!
The cooking stove
The two little boys of our household - Yame (6) and Mario (1) - Mario is holding on to the soccer ball which was one of our presents to them
The kitchen - it was SO lovely and warm in there - a BIT smokey though!
Murray and I at the kitchen table with our soups in the hats we were given (it is how they recognise us when they come to collect us from the group get togethers)
Murray with our ´mama´ Nancy (she is actually only 20 - but was assigned to take care of us I guess)
Me in our freezing cold room - thank goodness they gave us TONS of extra blankets!
Getting ready for the fiesta
Nancy & I all dressed up for the fiesta!
The guys in the local attire
And the girls (I think our hiking boots look SO good with skirts)
And the whole group
There was lot of dancing (most of which consisted of going quickly in circles)
We eventually moved outside to dance around the fire
Day 137 - March 14
We got up early to say goodbye to our families and have breakfast
Me & Mario
Brothers (oh dear - you can see here how Mario wet his pants .... I saw it happen - not good!)
Yame enjoying his pankcake!
Mario wanted some too! (the kitchen was like a smoke den in the morning!!)
This is Nancy´s sister Claire (the mother of Yame and Mario)
They liked to leave the nets on the balls - easier to play on your own I suppose
Cute
Me at the entrance to our room (there was no running water or electricity at the house)
The boys saying goodbye
Our house
Chilling out
The island is so prety and green
One last cute sheep photo
Lovely - a view of Isla Taquile which is a few kilometers north of Amantani
A fisherman down at the docks
Then it was time to say goodbye to our ´mamas´and get back on the boat for the 3 hour ride back towards Puno.
Our first stop was to the floating reed islands which are home to the Uros people.
The Uros began their unusual floating existance centuries ago in an effort to isolate themselves from rival tribes the Collas and the Incas, but due to intermarriage with Aymara speaking people they lost their original language. Today about 300 people live on the islands, however their numbers are slowly declining.
The islands are built using many layers of the buoyant totora reeds that grow abundantly in the shallows of Lake Titicaca. They use these reeds to build their homes, boats and the crafts that they make for tourists.
The islands´reeds are constantly replenished from the top as they rot away, leaving a soft and springy ground to walk on.
They really do make some amazing boats from the reeds. We were told they last about 3 months.
Pretty cool looking!!
We were greeted warmedly by the locals when we arrived
We were even give some of the reeds to eat!!! The base is spongy and tastes quite nice - apparently it has a lot of flouride in it as well (thus why they all have good teeth).
Me & Anna listening to the presentation about the island
Some of the local ladies demonstrated to us how they go to the mainland to trade for other goods that they need (usually food items)
Showing us how they eat the reeds
Lovely bright outfits
Yummm I like the reeds!
We ended up buying one of these hand stiched tapestries - really stunning
Murray spotted this guy hiding in the reeds
And this guy
One thing we have noticed is that each group of people in this part of the world seems to have their own special types of hats
I just can´t imagine living on a floating island!
We went for a quick ride on one of the of the boats as well, I chatted to the boatsman a bit in Spanish
This guy was pushing a new clump of reeds over to his island with a boat
Here you can see just how thick the reeds are
That evening back in Puno we surprised our guide Jose with a gorgeous chocolate cake with peaches in it, then it was back to our hotel for a nice warm exhausted sleep:)
And that´s it! (for now). Blog with Cusco, Machu Picchu, Colca Canyon & Arequipa to follow asap!
Murray and I all dressed up in traditional clothing
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